Taking the road well travelled along U.S. Highway 1: 15 things to see and do in the Florida Keys
There’s no denying you are near water as you start down U.S. Highway 1 to the Florida Keys and out of Miami. Looking from left to right and straight in front, there’s beautiful, sparkling blue ocean tantalisingly close. The interconnected islands of the Keys mean visitors can leap-frog their way over the bridges and down the coast taking in stunning views of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.
This part of the 125-mile road trip shouldn’t be done in a hurry. While by U.S. standards it isn’t a long jaunt, it certainly doesn’t need to be rushed as there’s plenty to see. South Floridians are laid back, chilled-out and casual and so are the places they hang out, so hire a car and a couple of bikes and take it easy with a few suggestions of must-visit stop-offs on the way.
Start the day with breakfast at Robbie’s of Islamorada and feed the hungry Tarpon
Lower Matecumbe Key, Upper Florida Keys (between mile markers 75–78)
Starting the day on a good breakfast is a surefire way to get you set up and so a pitstop at the famous Robbie’s is one you don’t want to miss. But don’t worry if breakfast isn’t on your radar, this outdoor eating hangout is open all day for big, hearty portions. There’s plenty to look at with some very quirky decor, a nice range of hand painted signage and a mini craft market to take in. You can also join an Eco Tour boat ride or go snorkelling from this Islamorada institution.
TIP: Try the Burrito Fra Diablo – This huge tortilla is filled with scrambled eggs, chorizo, red peppers, jalapeños, jack cheese and a spicy ranchero salsa. You won’t need to eat for the rest of the day!
Have a go at feeding the hungry Tarpon – We’re not used to seeing such huge fish round our parts so when you wave a bucket of minnow tantalisingly in front of these guys you better be prepared to hold on to the jetty incase you end up falling in with them. Quick reflexes are needed to move your hand out the way fast before it’s grabbed along with the tiny fish, and if that isn’t enough make sure you have eyes at the back of your head too as pelicans are more than happy to relieve you of the fish food if you are too traumatised by the greedy Tarpon. No boat required – the one hundred or so fish who know these parts are very happy to come direct to you.
Help save the coral reef with Mote Marine at the Islamorada Coral Nursery
Disease has ripped through the coral reefs of Florida in the last few years and it is continuing to move fast down to the Caribbean. Step in scientists and marine biologists at Mote Marine who have several facilities across the Keys and are making innovative waves to help rebuild and regrow the coral once more. It’s a long process but their methods are helping to speed up the growing of some parts of the reef by building land-based nurseries to help expedite the process.
“People are able to have a real hands-on approach to restoration and really understand the importance of the reef.” Senior Biologist Sarah Hamlyn tells us while showing us the techniques they have been experimenting with (which includes outplanting over 100,000 corals and continually testing for resilience giving the new growth the best chance to establish itself).
TIP: Be inspired by the marine biologists who are helping to save the Keys and find out how innovation, a diamond saw and some circular ceramic plugs are helping reefs to regrow while taking part in a workshop yourself. See here for details.
Get lost among the mangroves in the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, Key Largo
Hire a kayak and take the (somewhat confusing) maps as you meander around the beautiful scenery of the spectacular John Pennekamp park. You’ll get to explore the wildlife, see some amazing birds, paddle amongst the mangroves and (if you are like us) probably get lost. There are ‘easy’ and more difficult routes to follow with the more challenging taking you through some narrow and winding cut throughs that will certainly test your paddle manoeuvring skills.
TIP: Take binoculars for expert bird spotting and make sure you have something waterproof to pop your camera / phone into. Don’t forget your sun screen and a bottle water – it can get hot and sticky especially if you misdirect through those crucial turns.
Visit the Turtle Hospital
If you want to get up close to these beautiful creatures the hospital gives you the opportunity to support the great work the team are doing while getting to see some of the rescued turtles up close.
A guide will take you around the facility so you can see the turtles being cared for, scrubbed clean (looks more like a belly tickle) and swimming around their nursing tanks while learning about the issues that they are facing them as rising ocean temperatures cause disease throughout the population.
In happier news, when possible the Turtles, who are nursed back to health, are released back in to the ocean and if your visit is well timed you can even join one of their celebratory public Sea Turtle releases.
Tip: Bring tissues – the sad stories of the Turtles plight can bring tears to your eyes. Follow the team’s work on Facebook (@theturtlehospital) and you’ll get to see even more of their great work up close.
Cycle along the seven mile bridge to Pigeon Key
There’s not much left of the original railroad that ran the length of the Keys in the 1920s but the story of the railroad builders on the recently opened Pigeon Key keeps some of it alive. A two mile stretch of the old bridge reopened after a massive renovation and it gives access to the tiny time capsule island where the workers who built the original railroad lived.
Tip: You can walk or cycle the 2 mile route of the bridge (not all 7 miles have been restored). We took a bike as the ride along the bridge is beautifully scenic over the open water (there’s a walkway either side for pedestrians) and doesn’t feel too congested, plus it has the benefit of offering a nice bit of breeze in the heat.
There’s a bicycle hire shop not too far from the bridge, but be careful riding along the Highway to get to it as it’s a bit scary if, like me, you’re not a regular cyclist and a bit wobbly. While we wouldn’t want you to get arrested – there was a pavement that runs adjacent to the cycle lane so this might be a better place to ride the 20minutes (rather than feeling so close to the huge motorhomes powering past).
See the sunset at Lazy Days South
Grab a local beer and enjoy the fish dish of the day at Lazy Days South. As the sun starts to set sit back with a cocktail or jostle for best photo position. It’s bustling and casual with great big American portions and is perfect after a hard days kayaking.
Tip: The fish starters are great to share and when you’ve seen the Conch mentioned on every menu this is as good a place to try it as anywhere in the Keys.
Enjoy a craft beer flight at the Florida Keys Brewing Company
With 20 beers on tap and a nifty flight tasting chart, owners Craig and Cheryl’s wickedly bright and psychedelic tap room (and decorated beer garden) is a great place to sample some good American hops. The couple started in 2010 with a home brew kit, quit their jobs in 2014 to set up the company and haven’t looked back since.
Staying independent and small they make a range of great tasting craft beers which they sell locally meaning if you want to check out their tasty Iguana Bait beer you’ll have to go to the Keys to check it out.
Tip: Leave the car parked up at the hotel for this one. There are too many great beers at this Upper Keys microbrewery to taste to get back behind the wheel.
Take on an eco boat tour onboard Key West’s first electric boat
Honest Eco run two trips a day out of the Key West marina on its custom built baby blue electric boat. Small groups are invited to learn how the Keys were formed (over 120,000 years ago on ancient coral reef), the varied wildlife and what you can learn about the behaviour of the Dolphin pods that call the area their home.
What makes the tour so special is the sheer enthusiasm and knowledge of Head captain, Brady Stonesifer who can turn geology, history and nature into an awe-inspiring couple of hours. Weather permitting (and it wasn’t for us) you get to go out to swim and snorkel with the crew who will show you the fish and coral and you’ll also hang out with the Dolphins – but if they’re not in the mood then you’ll have to make do with a glimpse of a fin.
Get a photo by Mile 0 sign
Once you’ve headed down through the Highway Markers as they count you down to the southern-most tip of the US you’ll eventually get to the Mile 0 sign which tells you that you have officially reached the end of the U.S. Highway 1. This it seems is a spot for a photo opportunity to let people know that you made it to Key West – or that your journey is just about to start (depending which way you are heading).
At this point you are closer to the Caribbean than you are the US mainland and the tropical heat certainly helps feel like it.
Tip: The absolute end of the Keys is marked by a giant buoy which is also a most sought after photo opp.
Do your own photo tour of Key West
Unlike the rest of the Keys, where car is the mode of transport to get you down the Highway, Key West is a perfect place to leave the four wheels behind and get your legs working again or jump on two wheels instead. The famous Duval Street has plenty of fun and lively bars and cafes, but just keep on walking to see the pretty painted pastel houses which make for a great series of photos for the Gram. Old cinema buildings and wooden houses are given fresh coates of purple, pink, blue and peach that are too pretty to miss.
Tip: Stop off for a slice of Key Lime Pie – it’s an absolute must and there are plenty of lovely little cafe stops to grab your slice. Check out Kermit’s or the Key Lime Pie Bakery or just ask the locals where they recommend.
See if Judy Bloom is behind the counter at Books and Books
As bookshops go Books and Books is a lovely, author owned collaboration that sells a great selection of contemporary novels and fun fiction, but the reason we visited (and we’re sure many more) is that the author of all of our favourite childhood to mid-teen books is one of the co-owners who is often seen working in the store. Fan girl moments are made of these.
Tip: If the Are You There God? It’s Me, Margaret, author isn’t behind the cash register you can buy a book that she has recommended instead.
Take a ride in a presidential limo
A pretty special thing to do is to pop to The Little White House where the enthusiastic tour guides bring the building to life with their stories of Harry S. Truman and his time in public office as President of the United States. If you want a little extra VIP treatment, you can buy the ‘White Glove’ ticket which gets you a ride (and lots of stares) in the beautifully preserved 1950 Lincoln Cosmopolitan Presidential Limousine, a drop of whiskey in the presidential bar (Harry’s favourite tipple that got him warmed up for the day), and a look through (this is where the white gloves come in) some of President Truman’s own personal items (for our visit it was a box of pretty Christmas baubles).
Tip: Jump in next to the driver for a ride upfront in the Limo for a great 15 minutes around the town.
Stroke the six-toed cats at the Hemingway House and Museum
Hemingway loved Key West and while something of a ladies man he did manage to settle in one of its beautiful houses for some time in the 1930s. The house is open year-round to the public and is a big attraction but there’s no need to pre-book as tickets are sold at the gate.
One of the things that does get people stopping in their tracks are the six-toed cats that have free reign of the house. Descendants from Hemingways original six-toed feline friend Snow White they are quite used to all of the people walking around the house and take it in their casual stride. You’ll find them sitting on dining tables, next to the typewriter and on the bed.
Tip: You can take a guided tour (and if you say ‘no’ some of the guides can get a bit sniffy) which is worth it as you get to hear well-rehearsed tales of Hemingway’s writing, his friends and love-life while in the Keys – which makes for a great story of itself.
Hang out with the flamingos and their butterfly and bird friends in a stunning tropical paradise
Fluttering around an impressive domed climate-controlled glass enclosure are thousands of exotic butterflies that are bred for conservation and shared with other breeders to ensure endangered species live on at the Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory. Among the impressive cascading plants and waterfalls you’ll spot around 60 different varieties of colourful birds and two very loud and boisterous flamingoes who welcome visitors with either nonchalant carefree ignorance or loud squawking annoyance.
Tip: Make sure you don’t bypass the Learning Center which shows the life cycle of butterflies as well as some close up opportunities to see them as they make metamorphosis.
And finally; embrace the temperate weather
Florida is known for big hurricanes and tropical storms so when the rain comes down it does so with quite some effort (or bouncing off the road on our visit). So if it happens when you are there just embrace it and grab a hotel umbrella, leave your flip flops on (it’s still so hot) and don’t forget your poncho – don’t worry everyone will be wearing them. It will mean plans have to change but there’s plenty of great stuff to do – remember those bars we mentioned? Live music pumps out afternoons and evenings so grab a window seat, sit back with a beer and take it all in.
Where to stay
When you arrive at Key Largo – Baker’s Cay Resort Key Largo, Curio Collection by Hilton
There’s plenty of reasons to choose Baker’s Cay Resort – lovely spacious rooms, a nice pool area, a beautifully designed lobby, but for us it was the beach that won us over. Whether you turn left out of your room, where there’s a secluded little cove style beach with hammocks and loungers that are set amongst the mangroves, or right to the beach bar and floating pontoons, the water feels like a warm bath.
What’s close by: It’s the perfect stop-over once you’ve arrived at Miami Airport and started your journey to the Keys. You can get to the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park easily from here as well as Robbies of Islamorada.
Your mid-way stay in Marathon – Banana Bay
Banana Bay sees you right in the middle of all the action. The central location means you can stop off and head to lots of the must see and do things on the Keys as it breaks up your journey perfectly. The modest looking entrance hides a small resort with lots of fun sporting activities and direct access on to a marina so if you are looking for a spot of Jet Ski exploring or maybe some more relaxed kayaking or paddle boarding then this is a great place to give it a go.
The Marina Gulf View rooms offer plenty of space and look out onto the Gulf of Mexico with a nice big balcony to sip your coffee in the morning. The service is warm and friendly with the team more than happy to make your stay a memorable one. They serve up a very tasty Key Lime cocktail at the Pointe Bar which is a great place to see the sunset.
What’s close by: From Banana Bay the Turtle Hospital, Mote Marine and the Seven Mile Bridge are all within the midway point. It’s also the ideal place if you fancy a beer so you can stop off at the Florida Keys Brewing Company.
When you’ve ended the drive to Key West: Opal Key Resort & Marina
Overlooking the ocean, this waterfront resort is situated within a working cruise ship port which during our stay saw a huge Virgin Cruise Ship docked making for a lively town centre of visitors.
Just steps from Key West’s famous Mallory Square and one block from Duval Street this luxurious resort offers up globally-inspired cuisine and a sparkling pool surrounded by lush plant life.
It’s a perfect destination for walking around Key West as you can get to many of the area’s famous sightseeing venues by foot but if that all feels too much you can jump on a Trolly Tour and hear about the town’s history as well as hopping on and off if something catches your eye.
FACT BOX
The Florida Keys official website: www.fla-keys.co.uk.
A sample package
Purely America (0844 80 444 80 / www.PurelyAmerica.co.uk / reservations@purelyamerica.co.uk) offers seven nights in the Florida Keys and Key West from £1,899 per person based on two adults travelling. This includes return BA flights from LHR to Miami including luggage, compact car hire including all insurances, fees and unlimited mileage, and seven nights room only accommodation (2 nights at Baker’s Cay Resort, Key Largo in a Junior Suite, 3 nights at Opal Key Resort, Key West in a Standard King Room, and 2 nights at Banana Bay Resort & Marina, Marathon in a Chic King Room). ATOL protected.
