Storytelling and Souks in Marrakesh – In Morocco, they say that when a storyteller dies, a library burns.
You could never describe Marrakech as stagnant; this city is animated with a kaleidoscope of colours and street stalls spewing every kind of handicraft, it is veiled in a mysterious waft of cooking fragrances mixed with cow leather and an abundance of intricate architecture.
In the souks, visitors and locals are ready to duck into doorways to avoid the speedy bikes and motorbikes that use the slim aisles to take a short cut; and you will no doubt encounter the odd donkey and snake charmer; limitless offers of help with directions (even when you haven’t asked) and regular chime of the call to prayer.
Mingled with rowdy street performers and overflowing market stalls, the regal horse and carriages which line the side streets of Jemaa el-Fna almost (translating to ‘meeting place of the dead’) seem too traditional against the surreal surroundings of the central square.
The Narnia-like souks in Marrakech have been famous for decades and have attracted visitors who want to grab a bargain and haggle for traditional ‘wares which range from handmade rugs, brightly patterned bowls, exquisite silver jewellery and leather bags in any colour and design you can imagine; you can enjoy a mint tea on stalls selling silverware, and buy the teapot, or pick up some age-defying beauty products including eucalyptus-enriched black soap. You cannot contest its appeal to shoppers, even though the haggling may get a little exhausting and the stall holders will convince you to buy now as you will never find the same stall again.
Although chaotic to a visitor, Jemaa el-Fna has been a traditional meeting point for centuries, dating back to when the Berbers governed the land. Herbalists, merchants, cooks and snake charmers who crossed the Sahara Desert from all over East Africa and the Middle East to trade in Marrakech, leashed up their camels for the night and took it in turns to tell stories from their countries around a large fire in the central square, and stories such as The king and the thief, The lion, the hedgehog and the donkey, The teacher and the woman and The girl who lived with gazelles are as well-loved as British fairy tales.
The Square was even added to UNESCO’s list as a spot for “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity” in 2001; but in the last twenty years, with TV and the internet hustling for attention, the tradition of performing Hikaya (the telling of stories) has slowly diminished, and telling circles have been in decline.
One of the most well-respected storytellers, Ahmed Ezzarghani, known locally as Haj, began telling stories in 1959 at the age of twenty, and his loyal fan base encouraged him to set up Café Clock in the medina. This was a hugely successful cultural exchange model, where tourists eager to enjoy cultural immersion were able to undertake workshops and learn the traditional art first-hand.
Since his death, the storytelling baton has been picked up by British couple Mike Wood and Lucie Andersen-Wood, who have been visiting Marrakech for almost two decades and own a number of riads. Having fallen in love with the magical city, they decided to open a vegan cafe-cum-performance venue World Storytelling Cafe in February 2022 to encourage the local community to engage in the dying art. This prompted the first International Storytelling Festival which focussed on celebrating all kinds of oral traditions, music and dance.
A definitive success meant a second Festival went into planning and the production was bigger and bolder than the first. Taking place amongst the labyrinth of stalls, sounds and scents, this year’s festival showcased artists at a number of iconic venues within the enclaves of the beating heart of Marrakech. The result was an authentic backdrop that was able to give the inquisitive audience a true taste of the real city; adding the occasional accompaniment of traditional Gnawa musicians banging tbel drums and krakeb cymbals, or choreographed dance routines.
Led by UK’s Master Storyteller, Jon Row – who marched flamboyantly from exotically named venue to venue, his beard glistening and tail coat flapping, like a modern Pied Piper, picking up devotees along the route – guests were wowed with over 80 storytellers. They included larger than life, Honourable Baba C from Washington DC whose twinkly eyes and tall tales raised the roof in more ways than one; renowned teller Taffy Thomas, MBE was a minefield of tales – on and off the stage, and even devised a personal ode to me when I chose the frog from his magic coat, and Northern Ireland was represented by the dulcet tones of Liz Weir who enlightened enamoured crowds with stories on the theme ‘Ancestral Voices’.
The Festival not only catered for English speakers; local lad Zouhair Khaznaoui is the next-gen of Moroccan tellers, and his enthusiasm, charisma and mesmerising ability to involve the crowds made him a huge hit with his tales which he seamlessly switched from English to Darija (Moroccan Arabic). He even broke the world record for continuous storytelling, as he entertained a crowd of fans in the square all night!
The festival also featured a variety of workshops and interactive events including Brian Baker (son of legend, Josephine) reading from his latest book, public writing workshops, and discussions on the role of storytelling in preserving cultural heritage.
Where to stay
Stay in the heart of the action and book a stay at El Fenn for the best boutique experience and access to the glorious rooftop bar and pool. Non-guests also have access, but hotel guests get exclusive sunbeds and pool use. Along with a refreshing spa, the ground-floor boutique has all kinds of Moroccan goodies that you don’t have to haggle to purchase. Or push the boat out and head to the city’s newest addition, Nobu Hotel Marrakesh.
Art fans should track down Medina Heritage – a gallery-come-store-cafe-events space for their collection of contemporary and conceptual art; but if you want to get away from the bustle, the intriguing Studio Augustine in Dar el Bacha is just a fifteen-minute walk from the Square. The modern store is created to sell local products and you’ll be rewarded with a range of artisanal items, scents, unisex clothing, books, furniture, bed linens, vintage objects and more, minus the pushy salesmen!
Words by Sara Darling
