From Speakeasies to Secondhand Stores and everything in between – How to do Dublin in a long weekend.
While January could have been dry and blue, I kicked off my new year with a visit to the Emerald Isle during the 18th annual Tradfest in Dublin. It’s safe to say, I’m glad I packed my Wonder Woman pants for my whistle-stop long weekend!
Brimming with Celtic pride, the festival celebrates all kinds of tiddly diddly music that Ireland is famed for, plus you get to visit some iconic venues such as the Button Factory, Pepper Canister Church, Collins Barracks, Printworks and the stunning Malahide Castle to name a few; and even if you are not overly familiar with Irish folk music, the festival cherry picks the best of established and emerging musical talent that represents the current climate. The result was me toe tapping my way through a high-energy set by JigJam, immersing myself in an emotive portrayal of Paradise Lost; almost shedding a tear at Mary Coughlan’s soft accent and acoustic performance which was like melting butter, and getting inspired at the spoken word and rap night hosted by Sean Fhocail.
Apart from the festival, which goes on for a week, there is plenty to see and do on a long weekend. Any visit to Dublin will most likely involve a foray into the Temple Bar district, with its narrow cobbled streets and cluster of cultural attractions: but don’t miss the city’s classical Georgian squares and terraces where you can admire the infamous, unique ‘Doors Of Dublin’. These impressive doors are not plauded for their knockers, but for their identifying colours which set them apart from their neighbours. Another photo opp is the pretty Ha’penny Bridge which crosses the Liffey and gets its name from the amount pedestrians had to pay to cross the bridge back when it was built in 1816.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The gateway to Dublin starts with history and there is plenty to celebrate. Head to Trinity College to admire the architecture, and book a tour to witness the most important mediaeval written works in the world, the Book of Kells. The grounds are beautiful (and free) to wander around, but it’s worth paying the entrance fee to go inside.
From the old to the new, the Irish Museum of Modern Art is situated in a 17th-century Royal Hospital a few miles from the centre in Kilmainham and is well worth the thirty-minute stroll from Dame Street. With food and coffee available and a delightful cobblestoned courtyard and gardens, it makes for a jolly afternoon outing. The collection itself consists of more than 3,500 pieces, with about 250 artworks on display at any given time, and the temporary shows change every few months. Also worth visiting is Hang Tough Gallery which is a cool contemporary space in the city centre.
If you don’t believe in leprechauns, you should definitely pay a visit to the namesake Museum (reopening ahead of summer 23) and you might be persuaded. Located in the heart of the capital, this unique tourist attraction delves into all manner of Irish legends. You won’t see much actual evidence of the folklore yarns – but you’ll be cast under the spell of some great storytelling as you discover the myths behind fairies and butterflies, shamrocks and headless horsemen. You could also stick your head into Dublin’s notable store, The Crypt hiding behind an ornate door on South Richmond Street, near the city centre. Although the religious artefacts are to be taken very seriously, this intriguing antique store is a kitsch lovers’ paradise!
For more authentic paraphernalia and a jam-packed insight into Dublin’s unique history, The Little Museum of Dublin is a must. Book for a guided tour and you’ll be transported with some of the city’s best storytellers telling tales about the heritage, people, inventions and more. Most of the artefacts and random paraphernalia have been donated by locals and you will definitely pick up some titbits of insider info. It may be petite, but you could easily spend a couple of hours enjoying the atmosphere of this converted townhouse.
You may need to put aside even longer to soak up the displays in the immersive EPIC museum. This huge museum is situated in a former warehouse in the heart of the Docklands, which is an appropriate location to get the gist of how and why Irish immigrants left the country and have made their mark all over the world. With stories about scientists, politicians, poets, artists and outlaws, Ireland has made its mark in every industry.
Once you’ve had enough culture (and are feeling brave) make the pilgrimage to the southern tip of Dublin Bay at Sandycove which is a thirty-minute train ride, and join the line to jump into Ireland’s biggest outdoor pool at Forty Foot. Despite the name, the Forty Foot is not home to waves forty feet high, nor is the water forty feet deep, it was home to the British Army’s 40th Regiment of Foot, and has been attracting courageous sea swimmers every day of the year for more than 250 years. Or for something a little less chilly you might prefer some cleansing yoga at The Space in between instead.
WHERE TO SHOP
I’m only shopping pre-loved, so my guide is a little retro-heavy, but there are bargains to be found in Dublin! Siopaella is a curated mix of luxury labels, and with four stores around the city it’s great to rummage, if you have some cash to flash, you’re likely to find Chanel, YSL and Gaultier here.
If you’d prefer a more traditional rummage, head to George’s Street and the arcade opposite which boasts a variety of stalls and vintage shops such as OM Diva, which started off as a stall way back in 1999 and now two decades later, has been transformed into a retro-boho store full of women’s clothes and accessories from a variety of Irish designers.
Locals swear by the charity shops clustered on Capel Street with Nine Crows Vintage and Tola Vintage specialising in 90s and 00s gear. My advice is to travel light, so you’ll have more space to stash your goodies. Whereas if you’re more of a homemaker, there are some delightful boutiques in the Creative Quarter near the grand Powerscourt Townhouse. I particularly like Article for its modern Irish-designed tableware.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Of course, you will want to enjoy traditional pub hospitality, so head to the Brazen Head on the River Liffey. Serving pub grub and nightly music, this is a great introduction to the nightlife, whilst the RagTrader is Dublin’s coolest and newest whisky and stout pub; or head to The Duke for some side-splitting stand-up comedy which thrives on haggling every Wednesday night.
You’ll be spoilt for choice of interesting eateries. Tang does delicious breakfast, brunch and lunch; Eat Kyo is a chain but is the place for sushi on a budget and Le Petit Perroquet patisserie is the best place for an afternoon cuppa and people-watching (not to be confused with its big sister Le Perroquet – also in town but serves posh French nosh).
If you’re celebrating, the Morrison Hotel does a delightful Gentlemen’s Afternoon Tea, but women are more than welcome. Instead of scones and jam, expect hearty steak sandwiches, beef sliders, smoked rasher scones and whiskey chocolate truffles, or head to Loose Cannon for cheese and wine if you’d prefer something boozy; and push the boat out for a posh dinner at the Millstone restaurant.
Aleena restaurant was founded in 1993 and serves authentic Indian food, just a stone’s throw from The original Temple Bar or you can fill up on burritos at the hip Pablo Picante. However, the newest place to be seen is the canal basin development, where trendy locals frequent Dublin’s latest 5-star offering, The Marker; this buzzy area also has a theatre and is building a reputation as the place to be.
Obviously, you need to taste a pint of Guinness (or two) but you can also enjoy a tour of a whiskey house. The Jameson Distillery tour will take you through the history and process of creating refined whiskey, along with the unique opportunity to take part in a comparative whiskey-tasting experience. Whilst the Teeling Distillery also does whiskey tours but on a much smaller scale. Or scrap the booze, and head straight to Butler’s chocolates cafe for a sweet treat.
For more information, please visit www.ireland.com
Sara Darling
