ROTTERDAM: THE COMEBACK CITY
Recently listed as one of Lonely Planet’s Top Ten Greatest Comeback Cities, Rotterdam sure does have a lot to offer. With no less than 45 museums and art galleries, and buildings which make it an architect’s paradise; you won’t be stuck for things to do in this bustling, eclectic city. Fused hopped on a flight to check it out.
I was as surprised as anyone (having not done my research) when I got out of the taxi in Rotterdam Central, expecting a twee little place full of colourful, pretty buildings along canal towpaths; I was greeted instead by a sprawling metropolis full of shiny new skyscrapers and bikes…everywhere!
History
Rotterdam was heavily bombed in WWII but city planners decided to embrace the resulting space by building wider streets with separate roads for cyclists and motorcycles.
The city also opened Lijnbaan- the first pedestrianised shopping precinct in Europe- in 1953 as a result of this new space.
Rotterdam is now the greenest city in the Netherlands with 75m2 of public parks and gardens, and almost as many trees as inhabitants!
Few original buildings remain but Rotterdam has still managed to become famous for it’s architecture with iconic, modern structures such as the Erasmus Bridge (aka The Swan) and Cube Houses. In fact, everywhere you look there seems to be another striking creation.
The city lies on the river Maas and seems even huger than it is due to this large expanse of water. Because of this, and it’s imposing skyline, Rotterdam has been called ‘Manhatten on the Maas’.
The city’s world famous port has more than 400 years experience of successful trade and shipping and is Europe’s largest port. It’s also one of the top 5 most important ports in the world.
Not bad for what started off as a little fishing village!
Stay
We stayed in the swanky Inntel Hotel which is based next to the port. With 16 floors, a spa and a stylish restaurant, it’s a very trendy hotel and offers the most delicious and extensive breakfast I’ve experienced to date- you don’t have to get up too early to catch it either. Champagne? Yes please!
I was informed that the Black Eyed Peas stayed in the hotel’s luxurious panorama rooms last year- well, if it’s good enough for them it’s good enough for us! Just don’t forget your swimsuit like I did.
Inntel Hotel is conveniently nestled between the port and the main shopping area, where you’ll find familiar brands such as H&M and Lacoste as well as shiny Dutch department stores and the inevitable ‘Maccy D’s’.
Transport
Everything is within easy reach thanks to the network of trams, trains and the subway system.
There are dedicated roads just for cycles and many places to hire them; We used aroundtown.nl and spent a day cycling around the city on trendy Electra cruisers with an excellent guide. It’s so safe in Rotterdam; you can even leave your bike unlocked in the street while you check out the shops.
If you need to get across town then head to the port and catch a spido. These convenient speedboat taxis are a novelty and the quickest way to travel to the other side of the river.
There are also regular high speed trains from Rotterdam which can get you all the way to London in only 3.5 hours, Paris in 2.5 and Amsterdam in just 20 mins. Sweet!
Shopping
With hundreds of stores and many of them independent, Rotterdam is great for shopping. You’ll find all your usual favourites in amongst popular Dutch stores like De Bijenkorf (The Beehive) in the Lijnbaankwartier but for something a little more trendy and individual head over to the Laurenskwartier where you’ll find quirky boutiques like Very Cherry (kitsch50s inspired clothing) and Gorilli (über-cool designer menswear).
There are plenty of bars and cafes near by to break up an afternoon’s shopping by catching up with some mates. Fused recommends Level (Pannekoekstraat 76a), a stylish cocktail bar with great food and sexy interiors.
Arts and Culture
Recently nominated for a Wallpaper* design award (Best City), Rotterdam has the highest number of architectural firms in the Netherlands and has been acclaimed by the Dutch building industry as the leading city in architecture. From the impressive Cube Houses, designed by Piet Blom, to the €165 million Erasmus bridge; the impressive skyline of the city is constantly changing with the addition of amazing new buildings and structures.
If you like your architecture you are sure to find this a fascinating place. There is even a museum dedicated to it-
The Netherlands Architecture Institute (Museumpark 25).
Rotterdam is also home to the Netherlands Fotomuseum (Las Palmas, Wilhelminakade 332)- which is a brilliant space, even by London standards.
At the time I visited the main exhibitor was Nan Goldin (just to give you an idea of the calibre of artists on show here).
The museum has some great archival and educational facilities which enable you to browse the past catalogue in your own time and learn about the artists you love as well as discover new work. The building has a very modern, minimalist feel which is dark and edgy and suits the medium perfectly. Although you would imagine it to be quite stark and cold it is actually very luxurious and you will find yourself comfortably wandering around for hours without realising.
The Fotomuseum also boasts an extremely nice bookshop. Well worth a visit.
Dining
Foodies will delight in the vast array of cuisines on offer in the city; over 100 apparently! Restaurants here are of a good quality and there are loads to choose from. Fused recommends Bazar (Bazar16) for Middle Eastern comfort food in a colourful setting. The lush Hotel Bazar is just next door and
is definitely on my list of places to stay in the future. Carrie Bradshaw would love it!
Clubbing
Move over Amsterdam!
Rotterdam’s not short of hip night spots, whatever your taste. It even has a unique city beach and access to another beach on the outskirts of the city which play host to some great parties in the summer.
We checked out the local nightlife and here is a little compilation of my favourites so far:
Cafe Parket- If you like your night to have a studenty pub feel then head here. You can have a casual drink and a laugh with your mates or dance the night away in the back room (Club Vibes) to indie and pop anthems.
Elit- If you like a young crowd but prefer cocktails and a bit of posing then Elit should be on your list. It does get rammed in here but there are plenty of other places near by if you fancy a spot of bar-hopping.
Rotown- If you want to eat some great food to a great soundtrack with live music literally in the next room then head to the brilliant Rotown
where you can catch acts such as Dan le Sac vs Scroobius Pip.
Cinema- If you prefer dancing to funky house in chic surroundings then spend your night in Cinema with the beautiful people.
Witte Appe- This bar has been named Lonely Planet’s ‘Best Bar in the World’ but be warned- it’s tiny and gets very busy; head there early to avoid disappointment.
Ahoy- If you’re all about Superclubs then get the train to the outskirts of Rotterdam where you will find Ahoy. It’s a bit like the O2, with various events on throughout the year, and you can dance away ‘til the early hours to huge international acts and DJs.
So now you know what this exciting city has to offer you’ll just have to go and see for yourself; At 3.5 hours by train there’s no excuse not to. I for one will be be going back as soon as I can!
