PAINT THE TOWN PINK IN TOULOUSE
Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France and takes this accolade very seriously. Renowned for its thick-calved rugby players (Stade Toulousain is considered the most successful club in Europe), rich aviation history, where plane spotters can go nuts at the Musée Aeroscopia; it offers a phenomenal range of wine, thanks to the acres and acres of vineyards to the North and to the East, as well as plenty of intriguing museums to keep you occupied on a city break.
Christened ‘La Ville Rose’ thanks to the salmon coloured terracotta bricks which line the buildings of the old quarter, it fuses both old with new, and distinctly walkable, most of the action centres around Canal du Midi, a 17th-century canal that stretches from Béziers, on the Mediterranean coast, to Toulouse- connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean via the Garonne river.
Bordered by the imposing Pyrenees Mountains to the South and to the West the summer brings long hazy days; but winter has a totally different vibe with frosty roofs, rosy cheeks and festive ice rinks to entertain families and happy shoppers who flock to soak up the atmosphere and mulled wine.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Start your morning with a refreshing dip in the stunning art-deco Alfred Nakache lido, which is famed as being the largest pool in Europe. Taking its name from a famed French swimmer and water-polo player, it is known locally as the Artem and is the perfect place to burn some calories and set yourself up for more gluttony!
Then head to the neoclassical Capitole Building in the heart of the city for some sightseeing. Situated on a central square, it is the hub of activity all year round, and is home to the spectacular Theatre du Capitole, which is worth a visit for the architecture even if you don’t catch a show. Cast your eyes upwards as you walk through the adjoining arcade to glimpse an illustrated timeline of the history of Toulouse known as Raymond Moretti’s Air and Space paintings.
The residents of Toulouse love to shop, and along with an impressive lineup of designer stores, including the Toulouse-founded Comptoir des Cotonniers, there is a vibrant indie scene with local designers, galleries and coffee shops – check out concept store L’Interprète, SLOW Concept and L’Adresse Confidentielle by Maison Carrillo for an intriguing and eclectic mix of homeware and clothing by local and international brands.
If you like to rummage, check the dates for the Les Allees flea market which takes place once a month, and you never know what you’ll find! This giant sale sets up under the trees between the War Memorial and the garden at the Grand-Round and brings buyers and sellers from all over France. On a smaller scale, the Sunday morning market at Saint Aubin brings local sellers and you can pick up household items, clothes and bric a brac. Whereas vintage fashion fans can have a field day rummaging through the pre-loved items in the stores around Rue Cujas, Rue Sainte-Ursule and Rue Peyrolières which boasts some cool vintage stores such as Retropolis, The Ad’s Vintage and The Pink Tiger.
ART & CULTURE
There is no shortage of galleries to check out, and whatever kind of exhibitions tickle your fancy, you should be able to find something to please.
The Augustins Museum, located in the former Augustinian monastery in the heart of the city and has been a cultural destination since 1793. Step inside this peaceful sanctuary and enjoy an array of painting and sculpture dating from the beginning of the Middle Ages to the 1940s which rub shoulders with Romanesque sculpture and Gothic masterpieces (please note that the museum is now closed for the renovation with a full reopening planned for 2025).
The recently reopened Paul-Dupuy Museum is located in a 17th century mansion in the historical area of the Carmes, and showcases a private collection of decorative and graphical arts dedicated to amateur collector Paul Dupuy (1867-1944). Expect to see an eclectic mix of paintings, sculptures, pharmaceutical paraphernalia and clocks which were bequeathed to the city. First opened to the public on the 14th of July 1949, it has undertaken 3 years of renovation and reopened on the 16th of November 2022 with a renewed screening study and horology collection.
The Château d’Eau is a photography gallery housed in a nineteenth century water tower situated in Toulouse. The museum was founded in 1974 by Jean Dieuzaide, a French photographer from Toulouse, making it one of the oldest public places solely dedicated to photography.
However, my absolute favourite is the intriguing Halle de la Machine, where you can be wowed by machines and an array of mechanical inventions that was founded by creator François Delarozière. Amongst the exhibits are a walking 37 ton, flame spouting spider called Ariane and interactive displays which are manned by the theatrical crew. Enjoy magic, supervised fire shows and real life instruments which have been innovatively made out of found objects or catch a ride on the spectacularly giant Minotaur who roams the car park. You can even book in for an innovative dining experience, where your fresh food is served by robots, your bread rolls ping ponged to your plate and pepper sprinkled by a flying waiter! You can make a day of it, by popping to the Aeroscopia which is just next door.
Culture vultures should note that many museums are free on the first Sunday of the month, but even if you miss the deal, there are plenty that are worth paying for.
WINING AND DINING
The most famous dish from the Toulouse region is the cassoulet – a hearty white beans stew with charcuterie and duck; if this tickles your fancy, head to Restaurant Emile where the locals go. There are also a number of Michelin-starred establishments, with PY-R in the Old Town headed by youthful chef Pierre Clément serving an intriguing selection of artful dishes in a romantic setting and Mama Shelter, a hotel restaurant with a distinctly youthful vibe. Ma Biche Sur Le Toit is a trendy restaurant on the roof of the Galeries Lafayette, providing panoramic views with its food, and it’s culinary concept of offering dishes adapts to each moment of the day, and after dark, the venue turns into a club and you can dance until the early hours.
Alternatively book a foodie tour or just meander through Marché Victor Hugo – a local market selling all kinds of fresh produce including cheese, wine, oysters, bread and other hand made products. Take a tour with a Taste of Toulouse and you can select some samples and enjoy a wine infused picnic!
The Ville Rose is also conveniently located in the heart of an impressive wine region that offers a wide variety of vineyards and terroirs including Cahors, Madiran, Gaillac and Fronton so whatever tipple you enjoy, there is plenty to explore.
From l’Alimentation Bar à Vin to Maison Sarment, the wine bars are always buzzing; however if you’re not good at making decisions, you may wish to swerve Le 5 Wine Bar which offers more than 500 wines by the glass. With a unique self-service system, you can try wines that aren’t usually on by-the-glass menus. Plus, the multiple serving sizes mean that you don’t have to commit to a full glass of something you’re not sure you’ll love, conversely you can keep topping up. Sante!
Words: Sara Darling
