HIPPY AND WHOLESOME SONOMA
With just three nights to spend in Northern California after a jaunt to watch the exciting BNP Paribas Open tournament in Indian Wells, I decided to skip the more mainstream Napa and get to know its more laid-back little sister, Sonoma County. Boasting over 400 wineries, secret surf spots, and a lifestyle so relaxed that it’s practically horizontal, it promised something a little more offbeat.
Jackson Family Wines Vineyard – Sonoma County
The region sprawls from the dramatic Pacific coastline to lush, vineyard-covered valleys. Along the way, you’ll find a mix of hippie history, cutting-edge cuisine, and unspoiled natural beauty—a combination that makes it a must-visit destination in Northern California.
During the 1960s and ‘70s, Sonoma County – especially its western stretch of Bodega, Bodega Bay, Jenner, Timber Cove and Gualala – became a haven for hippies and Flower Power. During the peak of the countercultural movement, the area was home to two of America’s most famous communes – Morningstar and Wheeler’s Ranch – which were unmistakably at the forefront for broad-minded bohemians who flocked here for free love.
These communities significantly influenced Sonoma County’s cultural landscape, resulting in this corner of California being the vanguard of self-sufficiency, organic farming and artistic expression. While the original communes dissolved by the mid-1970s due to legal pressures, their legacy is evident in Sonoma’s ongoing commitment to sustainable living, cooperative enterprises and a vibrant arts scene.
The Flamingo Resort & Spa
My journey began at the laidback Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport in Santa Rosa, a mighty pretty town with brightly painted storefronts and trendily tattooed locals; however I was keen to kick my travelling shoes off and relax, and the convenient Flamingo Resort & Spa was a ten-minute drive away. Think retro-chic meets modern wellness: a large, heated pool, an after-hours hot tub and yes, plenty of kitschy flamingo decor – with just over 12 hours to enjoy it, I made the most of the Margarita happy hour before tumbling into a deep slumber.
Waking up as refreshed as the cocktails allowed, I set out with my gal pals to try a hands-on workshop with a local glassblower, Michael, at Dickinson Glass. After a health and safety briefing and ‘dummy’s guide demonstration’ (along with some heavy-duty goggles), I was let loose with a torch flame and instructions on how to transform my tube of glass into something more practical. As someone whose artistic talents peaked in childhood, I was sceptical; but under Michael’s expert guidance, I somehow crafted a wine stopper – an appropriate souvenir for the region!
Wine and cider tasting at the Horse & Plow, nestled in the heart of the Russian River Valley
From there, we indulged in a leisurely wine and cider tasting at Horse & Plow. Nestled in the heart of the Russian River Valley it specialises in grapes from certified organic vineyards, and ciders are crafted from 100% locally grown apples. Book a flight tasting, accompanied by nibbles and you may be surprised at the breadth of your palette! There are plenty of soft drink options available for the designated driver too.
Patrick Amiot’s Junk Art on Florence Avenue – image courtesy of the artist
With a slightly fuzzy head, and a new favourite vino, we pulled into the town of Sebastopol. The town itself was once a countercultural enclave filled with communes and organic farms, but now blends its free-spirited past with a modern, upscale feel – although you can see the spirit of hippiedom with the ‘trash art’ sculptures made from random discarded items on a three-block stretch of Florence Avenue.
The Barlow – a 12 acre site of outdoor markets and community lifestyle
Yoga studios rub shoulders with artisanal boutiques, and The Barlow, an industrial-chic marketplace, spreads over a couple of blocks and boasts crystal shops, an artisan food market, CBD tasting and vintage stores. I even spotted a sign for a tarot reader, but alas, our energies weren’t aligned, and she had stepped out when I popped in.
Farm-to-table snacks and garden-to-glass cocktails available at The Fern Bar
However it didn’t spoil my day, as I joined the girls at The Fern Bar for some farm-to-table snacks and garden-to-glass cocktails; if you have any stamina remaining, hop on over to the HopMonk Tavern which stays open later than most and hosts live music and trivia nights.
The Lodge at Bodega Bay
Bundled into the car, we set off to our new hotel as dusk was settling; this meant concentrating on the Sat Nav and less enjoyment of the scenery. Tonight’s destination was the Lodge at Bodega Bay. The town is famously the setting for Hitchcock’s film ‘The Birds’ and the windswept beach and rugged cliffs definitely seemed scenic, but thankfully I was too tired for nightmares, and I drifted off to the sound of the real fire in my cosy suite.
Learning how to identify wild mushrooms, edible seaweed, nutmeg, nettles and sorrel
Refreshed and windswept, we jumped in the car for another adventure which involved getting back to nature, as we headed along the iconic Highway One (Pacific Coast Highway), to our starting point – the historical Timber Cove Resort in Jenner. Located on a dramatic bluff overlooking the rugged coast, guests have direct access to the beach which often flaunts playful whales. We met our local guide (who thankfully had spare raincoats) and headed out on a hands-on foraging adventure to learn how to identify wild mushrooms, edible seaweed, nutmeg, nettles and sorrel. Although the weather was treacherous, the trees and the peace of the forest made the experience rather magical. Or perhaps I was just under the hippie spell of the region.
Feeling wholesome, we ended the day with an adrenaline kick—a zipline tour through the redwood canopy via Northern California’s longest zipline. I was ready—harnessed, helmeted and prepped; But then… I wasn’t. My fear of heights took over. As my group whooped and hollered through the treetops, I opted for a peaceful hike below, admiring the redwoods from a much safer altitude.
As my whirlwind trip wrapped up, I realised Sonoma isn’t just a place—it’s a state of mind. Yes, the wine is world-class, but it’s everything else that makes it so special: the misty redwoods, the untamed coastline, the farm-to-table cuisine, and the effortless mix of luxury and authenticity. I left with more than just a bottle of Pinot. I had my handcrafted wine stopper, a new appreciation for foraging and a nagging desire to return. Next time, I’ll make more time for The Barlow, get my tarot cards read, and finally check out that vintage shop I had to skip. Maybe, just maybe, I’ll conquer that zipline too.
Words: Sara Darling
Top image credit: Bodega Head by Glenn Lee Robinson
For info on the region, check out https://www.sonomacounty.com/
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