HIP TRIPS IN FRANCE’S THE THREE VALLEYS
France’s Three Valleys is the world’s largest connected ski area, stretching across the Alps from Courchevel to Orelle. In the winter months, the slopes are alive with skiers and boarders, but the attractions of the area extend well beyond the piste, and the hiking and mountain biking are a big draw even in summer.
It’s when the snow falls that the Three Valleys really demands your attention, however. Between them, the eight linked ski resorts have some 600 km of runs, 155 lifts, and more than 80% of the ski area is above 800 m. This means that the ski season is long, with regular dumps of deep snow from December until April.
Whether you ski, board, or prefer to watch others exerting themselves whilst you knock back beers on the terrace, here’s what you need to know to have the hippest trip in the Three Valleys:
Where to drink – La Taiga
La Tania
La Taiga is somewhere between an Alpine chalet and a British pub, and it incorporates the very best aspects of both. There is often live music in the bar in the evening, and landlord Tim is an affable and entertaining host. Happy Hour starts daily at 5 pm, and as beers start from just €3.50, it’s one of the most affordable watering holes in the area. The extensive list of classic and speciality cocktails is pretty fantastic, too, and you’ll be glad to hear that Happy Hour lasts rather more than an hour.
Where to eat – Restaurant Azimut
Le Praz
Nothing builds up an appetite like a day on the slopes, and at Restaurant Azimut chef François Moureaux knows exactly how to restore your energy. His culinary style adds a contemporary flair to ingredients and recipes from the local Savoir region, and though he’s previously been awarded a Michelin star, Azimut retains an unpretentious feel. If you turn up in your salopettes straight from the slopes, that is perfectly acceptable. The four course set menu — which typically includes delicacies such as marinated trout with sorrel, and roasted shoulder of veal — is €55, which is an absolute bargain as well as a treat for your taste buds.
Where to stay – Le Residence C
Courchevel 1650
Le Residence C has the perfect balance between hotel facilities and home comforts. The rental apartments are huge and immaculate, decorated with contemporary art and stylish furniture and fabrics. All of the apartments have a balcony with village or mountain views, plus a large open plan living area with a high end Sonos sound system.
An extensive breakfast arrives each morning on a tray so you can continue chilling out in your pajamas. The ski butler downstairs will make sure your boots and skis are waiting for you when you come down, which is a thoughtful and much appreciated touch. Other attractions of this apart-hotel include the excellent Bistrot Le C restaurant, a spa and wellbeing area, and the building’s convenient location just an escalator ride away from both the ski lifts and Aquamotion.
Where to party – La Folie Douce
Meribel
La Folie Douce has been the most famous name in apres ski since the 1960s, and they have a piste-side bar right on the slopes in Meribel. Every night (indeed, every afternoon) is party night, but highlights of the calendar include the Old School Ski Party every Wednesday, and regular live sets by cracking international DJs. Just make sure you don’t miss the last lift back to Courchevel: it is a long way home by road!
Best place for art – Art at the Summit
Courchevel
Skiing in the Three Valleys isn’t just about being active in the great outdoors; there’s a cultural angle, too. For the past 10 years, Art at the Summit has brought an impressive collection of large scale sculptures to the slopes and villages of Courchevel. These include surrealist artworks by Dali and a huge red King Kong by Richard Orlinski. You’ll spot these sculptures easily when you reach the top of Saultire and some of the other high lifts, but can also follow a designated art themed tour across the mountains if you want to make sure you’ve seen them all.
Best place to relax – Aquamotion
Courchevel 1650
It doesn’t matter how good a side or board you are, so much activity is exhausting! The best place to recuperate is at Aquamotion in Courchevel 1650, a complex of swimming pools and spa. Race each other down the water slides, try indoor surfing, or simply lie back and feel the snow falling on your face in one of the heated outdoor pools. It is particularly magical when the daylight starts to fade and gradually the stars come out.
Best place for views – The Tyrolienne
Val Thorens
The closest experience you will ever have to flying like a bird is speeding from Orelle to Val Thorens on The Tyrolienne, a terrifying 1,300 m long zip line. Your skis are strapped to your back, and it is possible to accelerate up to speeds of 105 km per hour. If you’re brave enough to open your eyes as you fly through the air, the views of the eastern part of the Three Valleys are second to none. Use of The Tyrolienne is not included in the Three Valleys lift pass, but is definitely worth the €55 ticket price.
Try something new – Racing Moriond
Courchevel 1650
The Three Valleys’ snow covered landscape lends itself to plenty of activities beyond skiing and snowboarding. One of the most accessible is Racing Moriond, a 3 km long tobogganing route through the forests of Courchevel. There’s a designated, Grand Prix style track with steep slopes, dicey corners, and even a few tunnels to navigate. With a little practice on turning and braking, you can pick up quite a speed. Conveniently, the finishing line is right in front of Fahrenheit 7 — the best bar in Courchevel 1650 — so the loser can buy a round of drinks.
