Among the designs from this year’s Kingston School of Art BA (Hons) Fashion show, the work of Charles Francis Hemsley nuked the catwalk. Hemsley’s collection, deservedly named winner of The Outstanding Menswear Collection, aims to challenge traditional menswear clothing norms by creating wearable designs.
Hemsley’s work explores a range of dynamic style inheritance. There are recognisable jigsaw moments that have been fused in a clever cut ‘n’ paste manner. He joins the dots so well.
Amidst a group of twenty one talented designers who unveiled their work to an invited audience of industry and press within the atmospheric surrounds of The Bargehouse, Oxo Tower Wharf, in the heart of London’s South Bank area, Hemsley’s graduate collection contained classic touches. Elegance. Minimalism. Absolute daring.
Hemsley’s eight looks, made predominately out of repurposed or recycled fabric, draw on inspiration from Hal Fisher’s photographic studies, a series of images that documented the clothing and identity within San Francisco’s Castro district during the 1970s. That, mixed with top-end tailoring in the simplest use of colour, Hemsley has created magic. Garments, ready to make the transition from catwalk to red carpet.
Hemsley portrays a range of subtle nuances within his collection, alluding to a diversity of influences, personal identity and exploration, without frightening the horses.
‘I wanted to create something which expresses the inner strength and vulnerability that comes with embracing one’s sexual identity, while at the same time make men feel empowered and want to wear clothing with non-traditional masculine detailing, such as open-back tops.’
BA (Hons) Fashion course leader David Frizzell has said that the annual Kingston portfolio exhibition and runway show act as an important launchpad for the designers’ future careers, as well as providing valuable links to industry.
‘The show is a celebration of our students’ achievements and the culmination of years of hard work. It helps reach a global audience of industry experts. This year’s cohort have demonstrated exemplary technical skill, innovative problem solving and high levels of creative design.’
As I entered the portfolio exhibition some hours before the show, one canvas-covered display box caught my eye. Carefully removing the splendid casing, a container suited to the storage and presentation of Fine Art silver gelatin prints, I was taken aback by a sheepskin inner covering, with the designer’s name atop, printed upon the fleece in bold black caps. Press releases came within black condom wrappers. The visuals buried down under were beyond. Years of dreaming, scheming, there in black and white prints and stripped-down illustrations that fizz. Here, I thought, is a star.
Away from the herding that Graduation Fashion Week has become up the bum end of Brick Lane, I was asked if I’d like to meet Charles. A nod. Five minutes later one Charles Francis Hemsley entered the area with such an assurance, such calm. A designer, already formed, ready to serve. The directness and good manners struck as unexpected sophistication for one so very young. Yum.
Mr Hemsley is a dark horse. He strikes as an individual who doesn’t wish to venture out of his comfort zone in a deliberate determination not to compromise his aesthetics any step of the way.
A man of few words. When Hemsley speaks, each word communicates so clearly.
INHALE NOW
‘I have been fortunate to work at esteemed brands and they provided me with invaluable insights into the fashion industry.’
HOLD
‘I’m grateful for the opportunity to have worked alongside extremely talented individuals at these brands. At Tom Ford, I was exposed to an exceptional and incredibly detailed level of design, while Craig Green showcased impeccable craftsmanship.’
RELEASE
‘Witnessing Steven Phillip’s extensive archive of the highest level of fashion was an honour I will always cherish. These experiences have shaped me into the designer I am today and I’m truly grateful.’
RELAX
It’s always fascinating to attempt exploring how a creative starts, develops, arrives. I believe that Hemsley’s internship with Mr Steven Philip of Rellik fame and now ‘Mr Steven Philip Studio in Brighton’ is a key fragment within every cut, each measured individual stitch.
Steven Philip is a fierce driving force, recognised by so many industry insiders, such as Kim Jones. The very idea of approaching Steven Philip was pure Hemsley genius, as Steven Philip is one of the fashion industry’s go-to gurus for all things vintage. Regularly contributing to publications such as LOVE, i-D and Another, Philip also works in consultancy with major global fashion houses. The Dundee-born collector is in possession of one of the largest collections of Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano which he keeps as part of a permanent collection at his archive / showroom.
To have been immersed alongside Philip must’ve sparked so many insights, as Philip’s diverse collection ranges from the early collections of Westwood, Galliano and Alexander McQueen, through the Japanese greats, such as Comme Des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake, to cult 80’s street fashion such as Leigh Bowery, Sue Clowes and Christopher Nemeth.
Steven Philip has kindly supplied a few words to end this introduction to one Charles Francis Hemsley.
‘Charles interned at my studio through the summer of 2021. We often spoke about tailoring references and techniques. I am so glad to see that Charles continued his venture into it. His use of silhouette and line really shine through. I can’t wait to see what he comes up with next.’
Curation by Peter Paul Hartnett
The Hartnett Archive @ Camera Press
