BISATE LODGE: WALK ON THE WILD SIDE IN RWANDA
Worldwide there are little more than 1,000 mountain gorilla left in the wild. If you want to see them, you need to travel deep into the Virunga Mountains which straddle Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. A male silverback can weigh in excess of 200 kg, and they are the undisputed kings of their cloud forest ecosystem.
The adventure begins at the recently opened Bisate Lodge in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park. It is one of a small number of exclusive lodges which have opened around the park to cater to visitors planning a bucket list gorilla trek.
Gorilla build their own nests, either on the ground or in the trees, and these have inspired Bisate Lodge’s design. The architects have imitated both the shape of the gorilla nests and their building materials, ensuring a light environmental footprint for the lodge. Each of the six forest villas is thatched and blends perfectly into the surrounding trees, looking out towards the Bisoke and Karisimbi Volcanoes on the horizon. The views are magnificent, particularly in the early morning as the mist starts to lift over the forest.
As soon as you step inside your forest villa, you will realise there’s no inevitable contradiction between rustic appearance and opulence. The vast beds are made with crisp white linens and decorated with brightly printed scatter cushions, there is a mixture of designer and hand crafted furniture, and the fireplace guarantees you’ll stay warm on even the chilliest of mountain nights. The first thing that you will want to do in the morning is throw open the French doors onto the deck and stand outside with a coffee, breathing in the pristine forest air and watching the birds flitting back and forth in front of you.
Communal areas at Bisate Lodge include an extensive lounge and a bar well stocked with imported wines, as well as brand name spirits. The barman will rustle you up a cocktail in a jiffy, though after a hike in the forests a gin and tonic may be better at hitting the spot. There’s a dining area where all the home cooked meals are served. You can expect freshly made bread and pastries at breakfast, and an extensive wine list later on in the day. The stylish, contemporary decor and quality and imaginativeness of the menu is such that it can be hard to believe you are in the jungle.
But here in the forest you are: that is, after all, the reason that you would come to Rwanda. Tracking the mountain gorilla on foot is the highlight of any stay, especially as you join a conservationist on the hike and can sit watching habituated gorilla groups. Similar opportunities exist for spotting golden monkey in the bamboo forest, where they live in extended family groups up to 30 members strong. It’s possible to visit the grave of renowned primatologist Dian Fossey, to join Bisate’s agronomist in the nursery to help planting trees, and also to meet members of the local cooperative who supply the lodge with their fresh produce. In short, you can immerse yourself in forest life, learning about how the different animals, plants, and people coexist in this remarkable space.
