BALTIC BLISS: A FIRST TIMERS GUIDE TO CRUISING
If there is anything more relaxing than sitting in a hot tub with a Gin & Tonic, watching a movie on a huge screen underneath beautiful blue sky whilst sailing past the Norwegian Fjords then I’m yet to find it. My biggest choices over 11 exciting days on my inaugural cruise were what to choose from the menu, how to avoid eating too much Gelato or freshly baked cakes, and which excursion might take my fancy.
As a cruise virgin I’d packed for every eventuality (or at least one that required a dress and heels). I’d read-up on cruise etiquette. I’d studied the itinerary but I was yet to work out starboard and port side – but figured that was the captain’s job and not really mine to worry about.
What I hadn’t taken into account was the pure magnificence of our accommodation; The Royal Princess. A ship of huge proportion (it was easiest the biggest ship at any port we visited) it was lucky we were given a fold out map to navigate our way around.
Tastefully designed with the full on five star treatment the ship is stunning. Launched by The Duchess of Cambridge just a year ago it is currently starring in its own documentary (imaginatively titled The Cruise) on ITV.
If you thought cruising was just for the over 50s then think again; with amazing food, great cities to visit and onboard luxury we’re total converts.
Day 1 – Embarkation in Copenhagen
Our trip starts in wonderful wonderful Copenhagen. We can take a trip around the city but I’m far too excited to leave the ship now that we’re onboard. And anyway; what if we lose track of time and it sails off without us? We’ve found our stateroom (all sparkling clean with neutral decor, a double bed, shower-bathroom, flat screen TV, and most importantly: a balcony with loungers) through the maze of corridors. We can’t unpack just yet as our luggage hasn’t been delivered so we go for an explore.
The main hub of the ship is the central atrium section set over three levels where all the entertainment happens. From listening to George the crooner or Kory the singing pianist to the striking musicians that make up the string quartet, you can sit with cocktails, get your photo taken on one of the two ‘formal’ nights that take place, eat, drink and enjoy the ambiance. We’re spoilt for choice and it’s hard to know what to choose from. We make it our aim to eat in every restaurant, drink in every bar, and be entertained in every corner of the ship before we disembark.
Our handy cruise card acts as ID for leaving and getting back on the ship; credit card for drink and spa purchases (more of that later); and stateroom key. Its colour, Blue, tells the staff we’re first time cruisers – I think this gives them an extra level of patience when we hand it over looking slightly confused or bemused. Whichever way they are kind, friendly and always helpful.
We use our card to pay for cocktails and think how refreshing it is not to have to carry money around. We have a Thai prawn salad in the international cafe, it’s delicious and a taste of things to come. We’ve been onboard an hour and I’m still giddy with excitement; we’ve got the top deck to explore.
Swimming pools, a gym, loungers and a huge cinema screen (no matter how sunny it gets you can still see it perfectly) are all at the top of the ship. It’s official I’ve decided I never want to get off.
Having explored and gone back to our stateroom to discover our luggage has been delivered we unpack, sip on a glass of champagne and decide where to eat. There are three dining rooms (one of which is set dining), several restaurants that require an additional fee, a buffet hall, snack and seafood bars – whatever food you like they have it.
We head to one of the large dining rooms for a three course meal – of course it’s fantastic. The standard of food onboard matches the ship; delicious, well presented, full of variety and very tasty.
Day 2 – Oslo, Norway
We wake up in Oslo. We’re so central it is literally a two minute walk to the city centre from the port but we’re booked on to an excursion so after a quick pastry and coffee (at the International cafe again) we’re off the ship and on to a coach to head to the Hadeland Glassverk in Jevnaker. We pass the most idyllic scenery which is a stunning backdrop for our 60 minute journey. Once there we’re try a touch of glass blowing and make our own tumbler. A slightly quirky excursion but well worth it for the scenery alone.
We get dropped off just opposite the ship and have two hours to spend in Oslo itself. It is bustling in the central area and we join a crowd outside the Grand Hotel where we’re told the Rolling Stones are about to emerge. After 10 minutes of no show we decide to move on to explore further.
Back onboard our dinner reservation that evening is in the Crown Grill. This is one of the extra pay ‘speciality’ restaurants where for just $25 a head you get a stunning 3-course aged-steak or lobster dinner. I go for the filet mignon rare and it’s so tender and perfectly cooked I can still taste it now.
Day 3 – Aarhus, Denmark
We’re back in Denmark to visit the historical Viking town of Aarhus; Denmark’s second city. Our excursion ‘Highlights of Aarhus’, (available from $139 per person) takes us past cultural icons including the magnificent cathedral (the longest and tallest in Denmark).
We’re taken to the Den Gamle By open-air museum where we get to see a slice of Danish history through the recreation of 75 historic buildings ranging from the 15th to 18th centuries. Also included are more recent living history buildings. Our favourites are the 70’s commune apartments and the interactive dressing up wardrobe.
Day 4 – Warnemunde / Rostock, Germany
We get off the ship at the port of Warnemunde and on to a (much smaller) boat heading to the nearby city of Rostock for our excursion: Rostock Old Town & Trotzenburg Micro-Brewery (available from $109 per person).
You can get the specially chartered train from Warnemunde to Berlin (3hr journey) but we stay local instead to explore the medieval town. It’s small but packed with history and is the perfect start to the day. We take a quick tour of the Trotzenburg brewery to sample a freshly brewed beer and a pretzel. The excursion is just half a day so we get back onboard the ship and order delicious fresh pizza at Alfredo’s before heading in to the port seaside town itself.
The tiny town houses are beautiful and there is a long beach filled with seating to soak up the sun – although it’s a little too blustery for us to explore. Eateries, spas and shops line the streets for tourists and while it doesn’t take long for us to walk around it is great to stop off and enjoy a Weissbier.
Day 5 – at Sea
We have an indulgent day at sea. The entertainment schedule is packed with Bridge playing in the library, Texas hold ’em poker tournaments in the casino, cooking demonstrations in the theatre, croquet challenges on the top deck, dance classes in the atrium, and more. But that all seems like way too much activity for us so we’ve booked ourselves in to The Enclave.
Part of the spa The Enclave is the ships ‘thermal suite’ which include the Hammam (a Turkish-style steam room), the Caldarium (an herbal steam room), the Laconium (a dry heat sauna) and the line’s first-ever hydro-therapy pool. It’s dark and tranquil in here. The perfect place for some relaxing, chilled out time. The spa itself has everything on board you’d expect from a five star resort. The treatments on offer are extensive and on different days there are great deals to tempt passengers.
Sea day also gives us a chance to check out some of the more informal dining offerings including Horizon Court: the hot and cold buffet dining area with a multitude of food choices. There is a queue building for the oysters and fresh seafood but the Mexican stand is quiet so tacos and fajitas it is.
Excitingly tonight is ‘Formal Night’ so everyone is dressed in their finest sipping on complimentary champagne. Dancing is encouraged and the ships crew parade around in their whites looking very dapper.
Day 6 – Tallinn, Estonia
The weather in Tallinn isn’t too forgiving. We were supposed to go on a bike tour but have scrapped that idea due to the pelting rain. Instead we walk around the stunning and very hilly Old Town. Just a 10 minute walk from the port this is certainly one of the prettiest places on our trip so far.
The walled Old Town has remained virtually unchanged for 600 years and is one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. There are stunning monuments, churches and architecture at every turn.
We head to the confides of dryness and warmth inside the delightful Chocolaterie Pierre for one of their famous hot chocolates. The decor is somewhere between a junk shop and your gran’s house from the 70s’ – all chintzy with lace table clothes, frilly lights and a mishmash of rugs.
In contrast our lunch is outside of the Old Town, through the bus station, past an intriguing looking market (flogging off communist era memorabilia) and inside a converted factory. F-Hoone is as close to hipster hang-out and as far away from the medieval town as you can get with its reclaimed wood decor, quirky furnishings and contemporary menu.
Day 7 & 8 – St Petersburg, Russia
The weather in still pretty horrible by the time we arrive in St Petersburg. The captain wasn’t helped by the strong winds and choppy sea but navigated us in to the port nonetheless and now we’ve got an overnight stay in Russia with plenty of time to explore.
The city is large and sprawling and our first view of it is via boat through the rivers and canals on our tour ($79 per person). On the evening we head to truly opulent Catherine’s Palace ($199 per person) for an evening of canapés, champagne, classical music and baroque overload.
The following day we go all out for art exploring the Hermitage, the stunning architecture at The Church of Savior on the Spilled Blood, and even fit in a coffee break at the beautiful Art Deco Russian tea room at the Kupetz Eliseevs Food Hall.
We fail terribly at trying to find two contemporary art spaces so opt for a couple of beers (with complimentary vodkas thrown in) at Dostoevsky’s old hangout The Idiot.
Onboard we’re being lavish tonight with a reservation for the Winemaker Dinner in Allegro, one of the main dining rooms. Our setting is in the centre of the room but set apart with an ornate glass wall which separates us slightly from the other diners. Our chef has prepared us a special meal to go with the sommelier’s wine choices. Our Steak Diane main is huge and incredibly rich. I can barely sniff dessert let alone eat it.
There is only one thing for it and that is to work our indulgent dining with some dancing at the ships very own nightclub: Club 6. Resident DJ Shea takes requests and puts up with absurd dancing until 2am every night of the week – it must be tiresome.
Day 9 – Helsinki, Finland
Thoroughly cosmopolitan, sparklingly cleansed and with an abundance of saunas Helsinki is certainly a highlight of the trip. Design shops are scattered everywhere and filled with cool scandi-chic furniture. The flagship Marimekko design store is right in the centre and is where I want to buy everything.
After a good walk and a visit to the city’s former prison, which has now been turned in to an amazing looking hotel, we head for a traditional Finnish lunch (it’s an open type of sandwich filled with the freshest Salmon) at Armas with our brilliant guide Karri.
For the afternoon we have a quirky activity planned and we’re taken to a great design store for a touch of ‘up-cycling’. We’re offered bowls filled with bits of rubber, wires, string and given free reign to make something. Inspired by a Moomins lollipop I picked up at the tourist centre I decide to make a keying. As it goes it turns out pretty well.
Day 10 – Stockholm, Sweden
The journey from the port at Nynashamn to Stockholm takes 45 minutes and because of the shallow waters where we have docked it is the first time the muster boats are used to ferry the passengers to the terminal and on to land. Once in Stockholm we’re taken to Gamla Stan; the old town part of the city. Once again, and like many of the places we’ve visited, it is beautiful. Pedestrian friendly you can meander around the cobblestone streets taking in the many sites and fascinating buildings.
Also mainly pedestrianised is the nearby island of Djurgården which is filled with places to visit. The ABBA museum, Nordic and Vasa (Maritime) museums, Skansen open-air museum and lush-parkland are all here meaning you can easily spend a day picnic-ing and site-seeing.
The World’s first permanent ice bar is based in the city’s Nordic C Hotel. Serving up Absolut cocktails in ice glasses, within the ice walls, while you sit on ice chairs with ice tables and listen to loud euro-dance tunes it is a slightly soulless experience and as it is housed within the confines of a hotel feels a little false and very touristy. (Absolut Ice Bar & Gamla Stan’ excursion from $149 per person).
Day 11 – at sea
We keep hearing the ships horn sounding and a look outside tells us why: It is really foggy today. This isn’t an ideal scenario as we’re supposed to be meeting the Captain today as part of our Ultimate Tour of the ship ($150) and guessing by the weather he’s going to be a little too busy.
We’re met by Cruise Director and all-round entertainment manager Sam. She’ll be our guide for the next hour and takes us on a back stage tour of the theatre, we get to see the engine room, the huge anchors, the staff quarters, the galleys and the laundry room. With 1,300 staff on board it is remarkable to see what goes on behind the scenes.
After a quick bite to eat we head to the gym. Having packed my kit it seemed a waste not to give it an airing so after a short run on the treadmill and a fun-packed virtual cycle race on the bike I feel like I’ve worked off at least one cookie.
The fog has cleared and the sky is blue as we pass through the Norwegian Fjords but the captain is too busy so we never do get to see the bridge. To console ourselves we take a dip in one of the hot tubs on the top deck and top it off with a G&T.
Suitably wrinkled of finger we drag ourselves to get ready for out final onboard dinner. Tonight we are treated to Sabatini’s Italian Restaurant. While I feel another morsel shouldn’t really pass my lips it is hard to ignore the seafood linguine on offer and true to form it is delicious. A final cocktail and visit to Kory on his piano in the atrium and our night is complete.
Day 12 – Copenhagen
Time to disembark. It’s with much sadness that we have to leave the ship – quite early too for our flight back home. It’s been a whirlwind 11 day tour that has taken us to a brand new region with a new style of travel. It has been one of the best trips of our life!
BOOKING YOUR TRIP
Our trip was onboard the Royal Princess.
The Scandinavia & Russia sailing roundtrip from Copenhagen was 11-nights.
Prices from £1,428 per person (based on two adults sharing an inside stateroom). Fare includes all accommodation, all main meals and on board entertainment, excludes flights. All offers are subject to availability.
For more information or to book visit www.princess.com/holiday, contact your local travel agent or call 0843 374 2403.
Excursions: The Princess organised excursions available to your trip will be online to read about and book before you embark. Read up on the areas; some ports are far out of town, some places you may need a visa to disembark and for others you can just stroll in to the main city yourself.
