ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Art lovers are increasingly packing their passports alongside their exhibition guides. In a given year, there are hundreds of art biennials and fairs around the globe, each an immersive spectacle blending culture and travel. From historic biennials in storied cities to buzzy contemporary fairs in booming metropolises, these events offer not just cutting-edge art but a chance to experience each host city at its most vibrant. Below, we embark on a world tour of some major art biennials and fairs – and explore what makes each special, when to go, how the city transforms during the event, and where a creative traveller can eat, stay, and play beyond the show.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Venice Biennale (Venice, Italy)
Every two years, the Venice Biennale transforms the floating city into a sprawling festival of contemporary art. Nestled in the mesmerizing backdrop of Venice, this is an unparalleled celebration of global creativity. The Biennale – dating back to 1895 – now features over 90 national pavilions spread between the Giardini and Arsenale venues, plus countless collateral exhibitions in palazzos and churches across the city. From April to November (the 60th Biennale runs April 20 – November 24, 2024), Venice becomes “a canvas of multicultural dialogue, showcasing works that provoke, inspire and unite”. Artists, curators and collectors from around the world descend on the canal-lined streets, turning Venice into a vibrant hub of creativity and cultural exchange
What to Expect: The Venice Biennale is often called the Olympics of the art world, and for good reason. Each participating country presents an exhibition – some thought-provoking, some dazzling – in its own pavilion. It’s a chance to see avant-garde installations, performances, and national art trends all in one city. The atmosphere is electric during the Vernissage (opening week) each spring when the art world’s who’s-who rub shoulders at grand receptions in Venetian palazzi. Even if you visit later in the summer, the art remains on view for months, offering a more leisurely experience amid Venice’s fading summer light.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
City Character: Venice during Biennale season is as much about setting as art. The historic gardens of the Giardinihum with different languages as visitors hop between pavilions. The Arsenale’s cavernous shipyard halls showcase the international curated exhibition, often with monumental artworks that play off the raw industrial space. Beyond the main sites, you might wander into a tucked-away chapel to find a video installation, or onto a courtyard hosting a national exhibit. The whole city feels like an open-air museum, where getting lost down a narrow lane can lead to an unexpected art encounter.
Must-See: Don’t miss the Central International Exhibition, a curated show that ties together the Biennale’s theme – in 2024, titled “Foreigners Everywhere”. In the Giardini, iconic pavilions like Italy, France, the UK, and Japan often have standout shows (e.g. Germany’s pavilion in 2024 had visitors crossing a footbridge to an offsite island as part of the art. Also, seek out smaller nations’ pavilions scattered in the city; they’re often in fascinating buildings. For an offbeat adventure, take a Vaporetto to Armenia’s pavilion on the island of San Lazzaro or New Zealand’s in a deconsecrated church – these hidden gems exemplify the Biennale’s citywide treasure hunt.
Eat & Drink: In true Venetian fashion, you should embrace the aperitivo culture. As you gallery-hop, refuel with Cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and a spritz. A beloved spot is the bàcaro Cantine del Vino già Schiavi, where locals and art-goers alike stand elbow-to-elbow along the canal, nibbling bite-sized snacks and sipping prosecco. For a sit-down meal, escape the crowds with a short stroll to Osteria alle Testiere, a tiny seafood restaurant known for its fresh lagoon catch and intimate vibe (reservations essential). Or join artists unwinding over bigoli pasta and local wine at Paradiso Perduto, a bohemian tavern in Cannaregio that often has live music. And of course, a midnight gelato by the Grand Canal never goes amiss.
Stay: Venice’s hotels fill up fast during Biennale opening week, so book early. For old-world charm, Hotel Flora is a creative traveller’s dream – a family-run hideaway with eclectic furnishings and a leafy courtyard that feels like a secret garden. Those seeking modern luxury might opt for The Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal, steeped in art history itself, or the newer Il Palazzo Experimental in Dorsoduro, a design-forward boutique hotel that mixes contemporary interiors with retro Venetian flair. Many art professionals also rent apartments for longer stays; having your own pied-à-terre where you can cook fresh Rialto market produce is part of living like a Venetian for a spell.
Explore: Beyond the Biennale, Venice’s cultural offerings abound. Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection on the Grand Canal to see modern art masterpieces in Peggy’s former home – a respite of calm and contemplation. Architecture buffs shouldn’t miss the Punta della Dogana, a restored customs house turned art space (Fondazione Pinault) with cutting-edge exhibitions. For a change of scenery, take a daytime excursion to the island of Murano to witness glassblowing artistry or to Burano for its brightly coloured houses and lace-making ateliers. In the evening, enjoy a classical concert in an ancient church or simply wander the moonlit alleys – during Biennale season, you might stumble upon an impromptu party in a palazzo or a projection on a façade, reminders that art here is truly everywhere.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Art Basel (Basel, Switzerland)
Each June, the tranquil Rhine-side city of Basel becomes the centre of the contemporary art universe. Art Basel – the original fair that set the gold standard – is “indisputably the world’s leading fair in the international art market,” with over 200 top galleries transforming the Messe exhibition halls into a temporary museum of 20th- and 21st-century art . Founded in 1970 by Basel gallerists, this fair has grown into a global brand, spawning sister shows in Miami Beach and Hong Kong. But the Basel edition retains a special prestige. It’s a meeting place for artists, collectors and art-world celebrities, all converging to see high-calibre works by modern masters as well as emerging talent
What Makes It Special: Art Basel is renowned for its sheer quality. The fair’s Gallery sector is a who’s who of elite dealers – think Gagosian, Hauser & Wirth, David Zwirner – each booth carefully curated like a mini-exhibition. You might find a Picasso drawing steps away from a cutting-edge digital installation. Large-scale artworks that wouldn’t fit in a normal fair stand are given room in the Art Unlimited section (for oversized installations and performances). The result is an experience often likened to “a major, albeit temporary, museum” – except here you can also buy the art (if you have a few hundred thousand to spare). For art aficionados, Basel in June is pilgrimage-worthy.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
When: The fair usually takes place over a week in mid-June (e.g. June 13–16, 2024, with preview days on the 11th and 12th). The city begins buzzing from the Monday of Art Week, as VIPs arrive for previews and cocktail receptions. By the public opening, the art carnival is in full swing. Basel’s role as host each summer gives it a sunny, festive atmosphere. Long daylight hours and pleasant weather contribute to the vibe – expect blue skies above and vibrant art all around.
City Vibe: Basel is a small Swiss city with a big cultural punch. During Art Basel week, its normally quiet streets fill with an international creative crowd. You’ll see installations and pop-up events spilling out beyond the Messeplatz (where the fair is held) into town. Museums time their best exhibitions to coincide with Art Basel, and local galleries mount special shows. Yet Basel retains its orderly charm – the trams run on time, the Rhine flows calmly – providing a picturesque backdrop to the excitement. One beloved local tradition for both residents and visitors is to swim in the Rhine on a warm afternoon. Don’t be surprised if you see art dealers drifting downstream in bathing suits; many in the art crowd start their day with a refreshing float, dry clothes tucked in a Wickelfisch (waterproof fish-shaped bag), as a quintessential Basel experience.
Must-See & Do: At the Messe Basel halls, give yourself plenty of time to wander. Highlights include the Art Unlimited sector for jaw-dropping big works, and Feature and Statements sectors which showcase curated projects and solo presentations by new voices. Beyond the main fair, Basel hosts a constellation of satellite fairs: Liste is the famed off-shoot for cutting-edge emerging art (many now-famous artists had early career shows there), taking place in an old brewery. Volta and Photo Basel are other fairs catering to younger galleries and photography enthusiasts. Make sure to venture out to the Fondation Beyeler in nearby Riehen – this Renzo Piano-designed museum often has a stunning special exhibition aligned with Art Basel (past shows have included Monet, Rothko, etc.) . Its galleries and sculpture garden are a delight, and during fair week it attracts art VIPs looking for a peaceful art fix outside the bustle. If you have time, hop across the border to Germany’s Vitra Design Museum (a short drive or bus ride) to see world-class design and architecture – the campus itself is an architectural playground, including a building by Frank Gehry and a colourful fire station by Zaha Hadid.
Eat & Drink: The influx of cosmopolites each June has turned Basel into a culinary hotspot. Start your day like a local: with coffee and a fresh Butterbrezel (pretzel) at Unternehmen Mitte, a grand cafe in a former bank turned artsy hangout. For lunch, the in-crowd might head to Restaurant Kunsthalle, a classic bistro attached to the Kunsthalle art centre. It’s an institution in Basel – you can dine in the leafy garden or the art-lined interior, and it’s the place to see art world figures at neighbouring tables. (Late-night, their elegant Campari Bar is a must for cocktails , where chatter in many languages fills the air.) If you’re craving something casual, the Markthalle near the station is a dome-covered market with global food stalls – perfect for a quick world-food tour and mingling with students and curators. For fine dining, Basel boasts options from traditional Swiss to experimental international. Cheval Blanc (3 Michelin stars) at Les Trois Rois Hotel will wow you with riverside haute cuisine, while Volkshaus Brasserie (designed by local starchitects Herzog & de Meuron) offers upscale comfort food in a trendy setting. And since Basel borders France and Germany, you might also venture to countryside vineyards or the Alsace region for a dinner – but with so much happening in town, it’s hard to pull away.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Stay: Basel’s hotels range from grand historic to cutting-edge modern. If you fancy old-school luxury, Les Trois Rois is legendary. Overlooking the Rhine, this 19th-century grande dame hosted the likes of Picasso and royalty; its antiques-filled interiors and impeccable service make for a glamorous stay (and that river terrace is unbeatable for a summer aperitif). For a more contemporary boutique feel, Volkshaus Basel has become a favourite – this artfully designed hotel in a revamped medieval guild house features minimalist chic rooms (think polished concrete, indie design pieces) and is co-owned by artists, so it nails the creative vibe. Hotel Nomad and Teufelhof are other hip choices blending design, art, and comfort. Many visitors also stay in Zurich (just an hour train ride) if Basel is fully booked; however, being in Basel itself lets you soak up the unique Art Week atmosphere – including that morning Rhine swim just outside your door.
Explore: Basel is at the tripoint of Switzerland, France, and Germany, so it’s worth exploring the region if you have extra days. In Basel, check out the Münster cathedral and climb its tower for a lovely view of the city’s rooftops and the fair tents in the distance. Stroll the cobbled Old Town streets in Grossbasel, perhaps visiting the Cartoonmuseum for a lighter take on art, or drop into Bookshop Kunsthalle which stocks beautiful art books and zines. If you want a break from art, Basel has surprises like the Tinguely Museum, dedicated to Jean Tinguely’s kinetic sculptures – playful machines in a serene park by the river. For a breath of fresh air, join locals in an evening tradition: grab a drink or gelato and sit by the Rhine steps at Kleinbasel bank, dangling your feet above the water as the sun sets. You’ll likely hear snatches of conversation about the day’s best art sales or discoveries, underscoring that during Art Basel, the whole city is in sync with art.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Art Basel Miami Beach (Miami Beach, USA)
When December rolls around, the art world migrates south to the sun-soaked shores of Miami Beach. Art Basel Miami Beach (often abbreviated as ABMB) is the winter edition of the Art Basel fairs, and it has evolved into a citywide cultural phenomenon. Each year, Miami “transforms into an international mecca of contemporary art” during Art Basel
The fair itself is held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, typically for four days in the first week of December (for example, Dec 6–8 in 2024). Under one roof, galleries from five continents present everything from modern masterpieces to edgy installations– all just blocks from the Atlantic Ocean. But beyond the main fair, Miami Art Week erupts with dozens of satellite art fairs, VIP parties, public art displays and more, making the entire Miami area a playground for art and design lovers.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Cultural Significance: Launched in 2002 as Art Basel’s American outpost , ABMB quickly became the art market hub of the Americas. It’s not just a commercial fair; it’s a barometer of global contemporary art trends and a scene to see and be seen. The mix of high art and Miami flair (with its Latin American and Caribbean influences) gives it a unique flavour. This fair is credited with catalyzing Miami’s emergence as a serious art city. Major private collections like the Rubell Museum and de la Cruz Collection opened spaces in Miami, and the Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) gained prominence – all riding the momentum of Basel. Culturally, ABMB is significant for bridging North American, European, and Latin American art markets in a festive setting. It draws top-tier collectors (many arriving by private jet from New York, São Paulo, etc.), as well as celebrities, fashionistas, and curious locals, all mingling under the palm trees in the name of art.
When & Where: Art Basel Miami Beach usually takes place in early December, aligning with the end of hurricane season and the start of Florida’s glorious winter weather. The Miami Beach Convention Center – renovated extensively in recent years – hosts the main fair, with its sprawling modern halls filled with art. Just outside, in Pride Park, is the tent for Design Miami/, a sister fair showcasing high-end collectable design and furniture, which is a must-visit for design aficionados. Beyond Miami Beach, events spill into the city of Miami (across the Biscayne Bay) and nearby areas. Neighbourhoods like Wynwood, Design District, and Downtown feature gallery openings, outdoor murals, and pop-up installations that create a carnival atmosphere throughout the week.
City Character During ABMB: Miami becomes a kaleidoscope of art and nightlife during Basel. By day, there’s the serious business of the fair – the convention centre halls buzzing with curators and buyers. But by afternoon and into the night, the scene shifts to tropical block parties, glitzy dinners, and after-parties under the stars. Miami’s already-vibrant character – neon art deco architecture, turquoise water, and diverse cultural mix – provides a colourful backdrop. In South Beach, classic hotels like the Faena and the Delano host art installations and poolside soirees. The streets are filled with murals and sculptures (some official, some spontaneously created by artists in town). Even the traffic jams on the causeway feel like part of the experience, as art taxis wrapped in artist designs ferry guests around. The city’s Latin rhythms also shine through; you might catch an impromptu salsa dance at a gallery event or a DJ spinning Afro-Cuban beats at a museum party. It’s this fusion of high culture and Miami spice that defines Art Basel Miami Beach.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Must-See: Of course, Art Basel at the Convention Center is the main event – plan at least a full day (if not two) to absorb the gallery booths. Look out for special sectors like Nova (younger galleries showing new works) and Survey(dedicated to art-historical projects), which often present discoveries and retrospectives. Design Miami/ next door is a delightful complement, where you can see (and buy) rare design objects – from bespoke furniture to avant-garde jewellery – in a museum-like setting. Around town, the list of satellite fairs is long: Art Miami and Context (in downtown’s Margaret Pace Park) focus on mid-career galleries; NADA (New Art Dealers Alliance) fair brings edgy emerging art; Untitled Art Fair sets up a big tent right on the beach, offering a curated selection of international galleries with ocean breezes wafting through. Each fair has its vibe, and shuttle buses or ride-shares can zip you between them. Also, don’t miss the public art projects: in 2024, for instance, an installation of large-scale sculptures dotted Miami Beach’s Collins Park, free for all to wander and enjoy. And the Murals in Wynwood are a year-round attraction supercharged during Basel – famous street artists paint new works on walls throughout the Wynwood Arts District, essentially turning the neighbourhood into an open gallery of graffiti and street art.
Eat & Drink: Miami’s food scene comes into its own during Art Week, with restaurants fully booked and special culinary events abound. Luckily, there’s no shortage of options. For a power lunch near the convention centre, The Standard Spa Miami Beach has a chic waterfront grill where art dealers hash out deals over salads and fish tacos. If you find yourself in Wynwood at lunchtime, swing by Kush for one of Miami’s best burgers in a graffiti-covered casual spot, or hit up Coyo Taco for flavorful tacos (and maybe a midday margarita – it’s Miami, after all). By evening, reservations are gold. In Miami Beach, Joe’s Stone Crab is a classic (since 1913) – the move is to skip the wait by eating at the bar, feasting on stone crabs and Key lime pie in a buzzing atmosphere. For something trendier, Mandolin Aegean Bistro in the Design District is beloved by the art crowd – its charming courtyard and Greek-Turkish family-style menu attract designers, collectors, and magazine editors for dinner. Many visiting creatives flock to 27 Restaurant & Broken Shaker, attached to the Freehand hostel – 27 serves eclectic farm-to-table fare in a hip residential-house setting, and Broken Shaker is one of Miami’s best cocktail bars (tropical garden vibes, inventive drinks). If you’re looking to splurge late at night, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (in the Design District) is a two-Michelin-starred temple of haute cuisine that often does special art-themed tasting menus . And those who want to dance after dinner can find countless parties – but a classic move is to head to Latino neon dive bars in Little Havana for live music and mojitos, or to Club Space downtown if you’re in the mood for an all-night dance marathon under the stars.
Stay: During Art Basel, Miami’s hotels brim with art installations and special guests. To stay in the heart of the action, South Beach is ideal. The Faena Hotel, for example, isn’t just lodging – it’s like an art museum with rooms. You’re greeted by a gilded mammoth sculpture by Damien Hirst in the garden (yes, really), and the entire hotel is a fantastical set piece blending art deco and theatrical design. The Bass Art Museum is next door, and many art world VIPs base themselves here. Another artistic stay is The Betsy Hotel on Ocean Drive; known for its literary salon and public art installations (it even has a poetry rail and an orb-shaped work by artist Jaume Plensa on site), The Betsy mixes boutique charm with cultural programming. For modern luxury, The Setai offers tranquil Asian-inspired elegance, while W South Beach attracts a younger chic crowd (its walls are adorned with private art collections – think Warhols in the lobby). Across the bay in Miami’s city side, Wynwood/Design District now has options like Arlo Wynwood, a new hotel that’s walking distance from murals and galleries, boasting a vibrant rooftop bar. If you prefer to escape the frenzy at night, consider Mid-Beach or Bal Harbour up the coast – the Miami Beach Edition and Four Seasons Surfside provide a bit of an oasis, with world-class dining and calmer beaches to recharge by day. Wherever you stay, you’ll find that during Basel, even hotel lobbies become social hubs teeming with art chatter and perhaps an impromptu performance or two.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Explore: Between exhibitions, make time to enjoy Miami’s unique offerings. Take in some sun and saltwater – the beach is right there, after all. A sunrise or sunset walk along South Beach’s shore is a tonic after being indoors at fairs. For art beyond the fairs, visit the Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) on Biscayne Bay, which often hosts special events and has a beautiful sculpture garden and terrace overlooking the water. Adjacent to PAMM is the Philip and Patricia Frost Science Museum with a planetarium – a great break if you have family in tow or just want to stimulate a different part of the brain. The Design District is perfect for an afternoon stroll: here flagship designer stores double as art galleries, and you’ll find public art by the likes of Buckminster Fuller and Urs Fischer amidst high-end boutiques. In Wynwood, aside from murals, check out the Museum of Graffiti for context on street art history. Come evening, you might catch an outdoor movie or concert at SoundScape Park (next to the New World Center) where they project onto the Frank Gehry-designed building’s wall. And if the late nights get too intense, consider a short drive out to Key Biscayne or Vizcaya Museum & Gardens – serene spots where tropical nature and historic architecture offer a breather. By the time Art Weekends, you’ll have experienced not just great art but the full multicultural, celebratory spirit of Miami.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Art Basel Hong Kong (Hong Kong SAR, China)
Each spring, the global art circuit swings to Asia for Art Basel Hong Kong – the region’s premier art fair and a focal point for East-West exchange in the art world. Launched in 2013, Art Basel Hong Kong has become an internationally significant fair, anchoring Hong Kong’s status as Asia’s art capital. It takes place annually in late March at the vast Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), spectacularly located on the city’s Victoria Harbour. In 2025, for example, Art Basel Hong Kong runs from March 28–30. Over 170 top galleries participated in the recent editions, representing 32 countries and territories across Asia, Europe, the Americas and beyond. In short, this fair brings a truly global mix of art to the doorstep of China and Southeast Asia, creating a hub of cultural convergence.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Cultural Significance: Hong Kong has long been a meeting point of East and West, and Art Basel magnifies that role in the art sphere. It draws big Western galleries eager to connect with Asian collectors, and showcases Asian galleries and artists to the world. The fair’s influence has grown alongside Hong Kong’s booming art scene – today the city hosts numerous auctions, a growing gallery district, and new museums (like M+ and Tai Kwun) that solidify its cultural credentials. For collectors from mainland China and across Asia, Art Basel Hong Kong is a convenient way to see the best of the global art market in one place. Likewise, for international visitors, it’s a chance to discover emerging Asian artists and avant-garde works from Tokyo, Seoul, Manila, Jakarta, etc., that they might not see elsewhere. In a sense, ABHK is where the global art conversation uniquely includes a strong Asian perspective, making it culturally vital. The fair has weathered recent challenges (the 2019 protests, the pandemic shutdowns) and come back with energy – 2023’s edition was its largest since 2019 – underscoring Hong Kong’s resilience and importance in the art landscape.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
When & Where: Art Basel Hong Kong typically opens to VIPs mid-week and to the public Thursday through Saturday in the last week of March. The HKCEC in Wan Chai is the venue – an iconic site with its curved sail-like roof, perched over the harbour. It’s the same place where big trade shows and events happen, but during Basel, it turns into an art wonderland across two massive floors. The timing in March means the weather in Hong Kong is mild, and the city’s famous skyline provides a dramatic backdrop as you step out of the fair – imagine exiting a hall of Picassos and Kusamas to see junk boats gliding across Victoria Harbour against a mountain-and-skyscraper panorama. Beyond the convention centre, a lot of action clusters around Central (Hong Kong’s business district) and West Kowloon. Central’s galleries (many around H Queen’s building and Soho) coordinate their openings for Art Basel week and the buzz spills into the streets at night with art parties on rooftop bars and in chic restaurants. Meanwhile, over in West Kowloon, the new M+ Museum of Visual Culture and the Hong Kong Museum of Art often have special programming that aligns with Art Basel, making March an ideal time to museum-hop.
City Vibe: Hong Kong during Art Basel is electric. This is a city that loves glamour and bustle, and the fair amplifies that energy. You’ll see banners and signs welcoming Art Basel visitors all over town. Luxury brands host art installations in Tsim Sha Tsui boutiques, and there’s an almost frenetic schedule of events – from panel talks at Art Basel’s Encounters and Conversations series to fancy galas at hotel ballrooms, to after-hours gallery hops. Yet Hong Kong also retains its everyday local life amidst this: you might leave a sleek Art Basel VIP reception and find yourself in a lively street market a few blocks away, or catching a tram where uncles are discussing the horse races, oblivious to the art fever. That juxtaposition of cutting-edge contemporary art and authentic Hong Kong street life is part of the charm. Unlike some sprawling cities, Hong Kong is compact and well-connected – one minute you’re in a high-rise gallery opening, and ten minutes later you’re on the Star Ferry feeling the wind in your hair as neon signs light up the skyline. The Art Basel crowd also tends to hop between Hong Kong’s famed nightlife spots, so expect Lan Kwai Fong (bar district) to be extra vibrant, and hotel lounges like the Rosewood’s DarkSide or the Upper House’s Sky Lounge to be clinking with glasses and multi-lingual art chatter late into the night.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Must-See: Inside the fair, be sure to explore Encounters, the sector of large-scale installations curated specifically for Hong Kong – these artworks (sculptures, immersive pieces) are placed in strategic spots throughout the halls and often become selfie magnets and talking points. The Film sector (curated film screenings) is a nice break if you want to sit down and watch short art films; they usually show these in a makeshift theatre within the convention centre or sometimes at a nearby cinema. Also look out for the Kabinett sector, where galleries create curated sub-booths focusing on a single artist or theme – it’s like mini-exhibitions within their stalls. Beyond the convention centre, Art Central is a notable satellite fair held on the Central Harbourfront, a large tent by the water featuring a younger batch of galleries and a trendy crowd (often with experimental installations and performance art). It’s worth visiting, especially in the evening when you can enjoy views of the lit-up skyscrapers. If you’re inclined to explore local art spaces, take a trip to Para Site, Hong Kong’s leading contemporary art nonprofit, which usually has a compelling exhibit during Basel. And absolutely carve out time for M+ Museum in West Kowloon – Asia’s new flagship contemporary art museum that opened in 2021. Its striking architecture and expansive collection (from contemporary Chinese art to international design and moving images) make it a destination in itself. M+ often aligns a big special exhibition with Art Basel (in 2023 they featured a Yayoi Kusama retrospective that had people lining up around the block). Another gem is the Asia Art Archive in Sheung Wan, an incredible research centre/library on Asian contemporary art – during Art Week they sometimes host open houses or small talks, and it’s a peaceful haven for the intellectually curious.
Eat & Drink: Hong Kong is legendary for food, and during Art Basel, visitors have the chance to savour both local and international delights. Start your day with a proper dim sum breakfast – an art tour in HK isn’t complete without bamboo steamers of dumplings. You can go old-school at Lin Heung Tea House (where shared tables and clattering trolleys give a throwback experience) or upscale at Mott 32 (a modern take on Cantonese in a stylish underground setting). For a quick bite between fair visits, the convention centre has some decent options, but better to pop out to Wan Chai: try Kam’s Roast Goose (Michelin-starred and informal, for succulent roast goose on rice) or a bowl of wonton noodle soup at Mak’s Noodles – a comforting classic. If you find yourself out late (and you likely will, with all the gallery parties), Hong Kong has you covered: head to Sun Hing in Sai Wan, a beloved dim sum joint that opens at 3 am for the post-party crowd – their molten custard buns are the stuff of legend. In Central, the art crowd’s favourite haunts include Duddell’s, a two-story space that’s part Cantonese restaurant, part art gallery and members club – it’s known for hosting classy Basel-related events, and even if you’re just dining, you’re surrounded by curated art exhibitions on the walls. Foodies should also consider The Chairman, consistently ranked among Asia’s best restaurants, for a refined farm-to-table Cantonese dinner (book far ahead). For a casual evening, venture to Happy Paradise, a funky neon-signed bistro in Soho where a young chef reinvents Cantonese dishes in playful ways – a hit with Hong Kong’s young artists and designers. And it wouldn’t be Hong Kong without a skyline drink: try Sevva’s terrace for a glamorous view of Central’s skyline over a cocktail, or OZONE bar atop the ICC (one of the highest bars in the world) for a jaw-dropping nightcap above the clouds.
Stay: Hong Kong’s hotel scene is as dynamic as its art scene. For convenience to the fair, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong and Renaissance Harbour View are adjacent to the HKCEC – these are classic luxury hotels, often housing gallery delegations and artists. For a truly artful stay, The Upper House in Admiralty is a serene design haven popular among creative visitors; it’s modern, understated, with an emphasis on architecture and artful details, plus it hosts Basel VIP events (the panoramic cafe is great for discrete meetings or relaxation). Another top pick is the Rosewood Hong Kong in Tsim Sha Tsui: opened in 2019, it’s filled with an astounding 450-piece art collection of its own and exudes residential luxury – many Art Basel VIPs choose it for the spacious rooms and harbour views. If you prefer a smaller boutique style, The Tai Kwun Heritage Hotels (JC Contemporary and Old Bailey) in a converted police station complex offer charm and are literally within a cultural hub (Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage & Arts, which includes galleries and a chic bar in a historic courtyard). On a different note, Eaton HK on the Kowloon side is an affordable, art-centric hotel that hosts indie music and art events – ideal for younger travellers who want creativity on a budget. And for those who want to experience a bit of colonial-era nostalgia, The Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsui remains a grand experience – even if you don’t stay there, consider an afternoon tea in its gilded lobby, where you might spot artists sketching and stylish fair-goers regrouping.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Explore: Hong Kong offers a rich mix of traditional and modern exploration for the days outside the fair. To delve into local culture, head to Sheung Wan’s antique streets and the Man Mo Temple, where incense coils burn in a mid-19th-century temple – a peaceful contrast to the ultra-modern gallery openings nearby. Take the Star Ferry from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui at least once; for just a few Hong Kong dollars, this short boat ride gives you an iconic view of the harbour and a sense of the city’s geography. Over on the Kowloon side, stroll the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade and catch the evening Symphony of Lights show that turns skyscrapers into a light spectacle. If you need a nature break, the Dragon’s Back hike or a trip to the outlying islands (like Lamma or Lantau) offer greenery, local fishing village vibes, and even beaches. They are a world away from the Art Basel bustle and show Hong Kong’s surprising natural beauty (yes, you can be on a sandy beach with hiking trails in under an hour from downtown). And of course, embrace Hong Kong’s shopping – from quirky design shops in Sham Shui Po (also home to a famous street market for electronics and fabrics) to the luxury flagships of Causeway Bay. Creative travellers might especially enjoy PMQ in Soho, a multi-story hub of local designer boutiques and studios housed in a former police dormitory. By the end of Art Basel Hong Kong, you’ll have experienced a thrilling intersection of art and Hong Kong’s incomparable city life – likely with a suitcase a little fuller (with art catalogues, maybe some boutique finds) and a phone full of dazzling skyline photos.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Frieze London (London, UK)
Every October, the art crowd converges on Regent’s Park for Frieze London, a fair that has become one of the world’s most influential contemporary art events. Since its launch in 2003, Frieze London has helped cement London’s place on the global art fair map. The fair is one of the world’s most influential contemporary art fairs, focusing only on contemporary art and living artists, and takes place each October in Regent’s Park. For a few days, a massive bespoke tent in the park houses over 160 leading galleries from around the globe, and the entire city gears up for Frieze Week – a whirlwind of exhibitions, auctions, and parties. Together with its sibling fair Frieze Masters (which runs concurrently, showcasing art from ancient to the 20th century), Frieze London transforms the British capital into an art lover’s carnival every autumn.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Cultural Significance: Frieze was born out of a contemporary art magazine and marked a new generation of art fairs, prioritising the cutting edge. It has a reputation for being edgy, global, and trend-setting. Many emerging artists who are now big names got significant exposure at Frieze. The fair also spurred London’s gallery scene growth; international galleries opened London outposts around the time Frieze took off, and local institutions like the Tate Modern aligned programming with Frieze Week to capture the influx of art professionals. Frieze Week in London means not just the fair, but also the Frieze Art Fair Talks, the Turner Prize exhibition opening (often timed around the same period), and a host of satellite events like the Sunday art fair (for younger galleries) or Moniker (urban art fair). It’s culturally significant as a barometer of what’s hot in contemporary art now – if you want to see (or purchase) the latest works fresh from artists’ studios, Frieze is the place. London’s status as a financial and creative hub means the fair draws an eclectic audience: European aristocracy, American museum groups, Middle Eastern sheikhas, up-and-coming curators, and of course, the YBAs (Young British Artists) often spotted at the champagne bar.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
When & Where: Frieze London usually runs for five days in early October (e.g. Wednesday through Sunday, around the second week of the month). It’s set in Regent’s Park, one of London’s royal parks, in a vast white tent structure that feels like a temporary modern museum. The location is quite central – a short hop from the galleries of Mayfair and the edgy art spaces of Fitzrovia. The fair’s design is high-end and navigable, with sections neatly laid out and even some natural light filtering through in places, making for a pleasant fair-going experience. Frieze Masters, its counterpart focusing on art from the ancient to 20th century, is a separate tent just a short walk away in the same park – a handy contrast between contemporary and historical art browsing. The weather in London in October can be crisp; fairgoers often sport autumnal coats and scarves as they shuttle between the tent and black cabs, but occasional sunny days make for lovely strolls through the park where Frieze Sculpture (a free outdoor sculpture park exhibition) is on view for the public.
City Character During Frieze: London is always a cultural capital, but Frieze Week kicks it up a notch. The city has a certain buzz – you’ll notice pop-up art installations along the Thames, special performances in the Turbine Hall at Tate Modern, and an unusual number of well-dressed people carrying artwork tubes or gallery tote bags on the Tube. Because London itself is so large and diverse, the fair doesn’t take over the whole city (as perhaps Venice or Basel events do to their smaller locales), but it creates a concentrated set of happenings. Neighbourhoods like Mayfair and St. James’s (traditional gallery districts) have extended opening hours and often their own mini-festivals. In the evenings, the art crowd might hit up a West End cocktail bar or an East End artist studio opening – London offers both posh and punk options and Frieze attendees often sample a bit of everything. The social calendars are packed: one night there might be a late gallery opening in Shoreditch with DJs and craft beer, another night a refined dinner at the Serpentine Galleries hosted by fashion designers. London’s multicultural, sprawling nature means you can step out of the Frieze tent and have myriad choices: a stroll to a pub in Marylebone for a pint among locals, or a quick taxi to a luxe restaurant in Knightsbridge frequented by collectors. The city’s character – a blend of history and cutting-edge modernity – mirrors what you see at Frieze: venerable institutions mixing with avant-garde energy.
Must-See: Inside Frieze London, make sure to explore the curated sections. Focus is a section dedicated to younger galleries (12 years and under) presenting emerging artists – this is where discoveries are made and the art tends to be experimental and fresh. There is also Frieze Projects, the fair’s program of artist commissions placed around the tent, which often includes interactive or immersive works that engage viewers in surprising ways (one year, there was an artist who set up a service to give people nails manicured with tiny art images!). Don’t skip the Frieze Sculpture Park outside (usually opened a few weeks earlier and free to visit for all) – set in the English Gardens of Regent’s Park, it features around 20 large sculptures by international artists; it’s wonderful to wander, and you might see families and joggers inadvertently becoming art viewers. If you need a break from the fair, pop over to Frieze Masters tent: seeing a Picasso or ancient artefact after hours of ultra-contemporary art can be a palate cleanser (and highlights London’s position of bridging old and new art). In the city, the Tate Modern and Tate Britain usually have marquee exhibitions in October (past hits during Frieze include blockbuster retrospectives of Olafur Eliasson and Nam June Paik). Smaller events during Frieze Week include the Sunday Art Fair (typically held in a warehouse venue, featuring very cutting-edge young galleries – more experimental vibes) and gallery-hosted talks or studio visits. If time permits, a day trip to Oxford or Cambridge to see their museums (Ashmolean, Fitzwilliam, etc.) is an enriching contrast – but many will be content staying within Zone 1, as there’s so much happening. Oh, and if you’re interested in performance art, check the schedule: Frieze often partners with institutions like the ICA or experimental theatres for one-off performances and art gigs during the week.
Eat & Drink: London’s culinary scene is world-class and during Frieze, you can enjoy it to the fullest. Near Regent’s Park, you’re a short walk from Marylebone High Street, which has gems like La Fromagerie (for cheese and casual lunch) and The Providores (fusion small plates and great New Zealand wines). For a proper lunch between fair visits, many opt for Chiltern Firehouse (a bit of a celeb haunt, modern American-British menu in a former fire station) or Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch – the latter is actually on the grounds of an old school and run by an artist-chef duo; it’s a light, hidden-away spot perfect for a calm meal of seasonal British fare. When doing gallery rounds in Mayfair, Dover Street Market’s Rose Bakery is a quirky cafe inside a fashion concept store, ideal for tea and cake pick-me-ups among the art-fashion crowd. In the evening, London’s diversity shines: you could grab amazing Indian curry in Dishoom (several locations, evoking Bombay café nostalgia) or slurp late-night noodles in Chinatown. However, during Frieze, many gravitate to art-world favourites: Jikoni, a cosy spot in Marylebone, serves an ingenious mix of South Asian and African diaspora-inspired dishes – a favourite of local artists. Sketch in Mayfair offers British dining in a truly artistic setting (each room is like an art installation; the famous pink “Gallery” dining room with David Shrigley drawings is a fun choice). For a pint and hearty fare, pop into a pub like The Spaniards Inn (Hampstead) or The Cow (Notting Hill) – not specifically art-related, but to experience London pub culture, which is an essential part of local life. And if you want to rub elbows with gallerists after-hours, The Groucho Club in Soho is a members club popular with the creative set (if you can get on a guest list). Otherwise, Soho House outposts or The Arts Club in Mayfair may host unofficial afterparties. Don’t forget to try a classic Sunday roast if you’re still around by week’s end – places like Blacklock or The Harwood Arms will give you that traditional British comfort meal to cap off the week.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Stay: London is overflowing with hotels, but for Frieze convenience, staying central is key. The Langham near Oxford Circus is a five-star that’s both luxurious and proximate – its historic bar, the Artesian, is a handy meeting spot and it’s a 15-minute walk to Regent’s Park. Boutique options like The Beaumont in Mayfair (which even has a room designed as an art installation by Antony Gormley) or Charlotte Street Hotel in Fitzrovia (arty, English townhouse vibe) appeal to those who like style on a smaller scale. Many galleries put their artists up at The Edition in Fitzrovia, known for its art-filled lobby and buzzy bar scene. If you prefer East London’s edgier ambience, The Hoxton, Shoreditch or Ace Hotel London Shoreditch (note: Ace rebranding happening, but similar concept) offer a younger vibe with creative types aplenty, though you’ll commute a bit to the fair. On a luxurious note, Claridge’s in Mayfair or The Connaught are perennial favourites for top collectors – you’ll see fleets of chauffeured cars outside these Art Deco landmarks, and perhaps spot a famous artist sketching on a napkin during afternoon tea. An interesting new-ish option is The Standard, London King’s Cross; though not walking distance to Frieze, it’s a quick Tube ride and the hotel has a retro-cool aesthetic with fun cultural programming (they’ve hosted talks and DJs that coincide with Frieze). Ultimately, London’s excellent public transport means you aren’t tied to one neighbourhood – so you might as well choose a hotel in an area whose character you want to experience, whether the posh tranquillity of Mayfair or the creative buzz of Shoreditch.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Explore: If you can steal time from the fair frenzy, London’s wider cultural riches await. A few ideas: Visit the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square early morning for a quiet dialogue with Van Gogh’s Sunflowers or Turner’s landscapes before the crowds swell – a grounding experience to balance all the contemporary art. Pop into the British Museum to gaze at the Rosetta Stone or Asian art collections; in October they often have special exhibitions (tickets may be needed). For a change of pace, the Columbia Road Flower Market on Sunday is a feast for the senses – a quintessential East End experience where you can literally “buy the flowers” after “seeing the art.” If architecture is your thing, consider an Open House architectural tour (if timings align) or simply walk along the Thames from Westminster to Tower Bridge at dusk to appreciate London’s mix of old and new architecture (passing the Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe, and St. Paul’s on the way). Fans of theatre might catch a West End play or a show at the National Theatre – London’s stage scene is world-class and a great complement to the visual arts. And if you need greenery, aside from Regent’s Park there’s Hyde Park(perhaps check out the Serpentine Pavilion, a yearly commissioned architectural marvel that often is still up in early fall). By the end of Frieze London, you’ll likely have a full notebook of new artist names, a camera roll of memorable sights – from avant-garde art to London landmarks – and perhaps a slight British lilt to your English after all the conversations had in this cultural melting pot.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Frieze Los Angeles (Los Angeles, USA)
In February, the international art jet-set trades winter coats for sunglasses and heads to Southern California for Frieze Los Angeles. Launched in 2019, Frieze L.A. is the West Coast sibling of Frieze London, bringing the fair’s contemporary art focus to the heart of the entertainment industry. Frieze L.A. largely focuses on contemporary art and “celebrates the exceptionally dynamic culture of Los Angeles and its global contributions to the visual arts” . The fair has quickly become the marquee event of L.A.’s art calendar, spotlighting the city’s thriving gallery scene and attracting galleries from around the world. Held each year in mid-February, the upcoming sixth edition of Frieze Los Angeles takes place February 20–23, 2025, at Santa Monica Airport– a new spacious venue that speaks to the fair’s growing ambition.
Cultural Significance: Los Angeles has long been an art capital in the making – with its famous art schools (CalArts, UCLA), influential artists (from Ed Ruscha to Barbara Kruger), and major museums (LACMA, MOCA, The Getty). Yet for years, it lacked a top-tier international art fair. Frieze changed that, immediately positioning L.A. as a pivotal force on the global art stage. The fair celebrates L.A.’s dynamic and diverse culture, bridging the contemporary art world with Hollywood glamour. It’s not unusual to see movie stars and musicians strolling the aisles alongside curators and collectors – something Frieze L.A. uniquely cultivates given the local demographic. This cross-pollination has cultural implications: it brings contemporary art into broader pop culture consciousness and vice versa. The fair also highlights Los Angeles’ status as a Pacific Rim metropolis, with a strong representation of galleries from Latin America and Asia complementing the local and New York/European contingent. In essence, Frieze L.A. underlines that the city’s creative energy isn’t confined to film and music – it’s a thriving art nexus too. For L.A.’s homegrown artists and galleries, it’s a chance to shine on an international platform without leaving home, and for international players, it’s an entry into the West Coast’s passionate collector base and cultural scene. Plus, Frieze L.A. has a philanthropic side, often partnering with local nonprofits and emphasizing Los Angeles’ community, such as fundraising for wildfire relief in recent editions
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
When & Where: Frieze Los Angeles takes place in February, cleverly timed around awards season – which means the city is already in a buzz with events, and many creative luminaries are in town. Initially, the fair was held on the Paramount Studios backlot, giving it a cinematic set-dressing (literally in fake New York streets of the studio). It then moved to a bespoke tent in Beverly Hills in 2022, and now in 2025, it’s expanding to Santa Monica Airport, utilising multiple airplane hangars and tarmac space. The Santa Monica location allows the fair to be larger (100+ galleries) and more spread out, with the bonus of coastal breezes. Visitors will experience art in a unique indoor-outdoor environment, under the sunny skies typical of an L.A. winter. Frieze L.A. runs for about four days (with the first day or two VIP invite-only) and coincides with a flurry of local gallery openings (the preceding week often dubbed “Frieze Week” in LA). Because L.A. is so sprawling, events also pop up across various neighbourhoods – from West Hollywood to Downtown – but the fair itself being on the west side means many will anchor around Santa Monica and Venice during the day.
City Vibe During Frieze: Los Angeles during Frieze feels even more creative and celebratory than usual. LA is a city of neighbourhoods, and Frieze helps bridge them by drawing people all over. The city’s famous car culture is on display: expect traffic spikes around the venue and a well-choreographed ballet of Lyft and Uber drop-offs at gallery parties. What’s special is the blend of art and Hollywood – parties at collector’s mid-century homes in the Hills might have art installations by a blue-chip artist and a guest list mixing gallery owners with Oscar-winning actors. Yet, L.A.’s inherently laid-back vibe ensures it never feels too formal or exclusive; you might be chatting with a famous musician about a painting while both of you are in sneakers and denim. Many events embrace the outdoors – for example, an evening screening at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery or a sculpture unveiling in Malibu. The city’s diversity means you could start your day at a serene Japanese meditation garden in Pasadena (perhaps for an artist-led workshop), spend the afternoon in the gritty Arts District downtown exploring street murals, and end on a rooftop in Century City for a chic museum fundraiser. Frieze L.A. turns the spotlight on the city’s year-round cultural institutions as well: The Getty might host a special exhibition for late viewing, or The Broad Museum downtown might have a curated tour for VIPs. And because it’s Los Angeles, there’s often a wellness and experiential twist: one morning you might find a Frieze-organized yoga session amid sculptures or a sound bath happening in a gallery. It’s very L.A. that way – business, pleasure and self-care all blend during Frieze Week.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Must-See: At the fair, aside from the gallery booths, look out for the Frieze Projects section which, in past L.A. editions, has been especially playful and site-specific. In 2019, for example, Frieze Projects commandeered the Paramount backlot’s fake storefronts: one artist set up a parody pop-up shop, and another did a performance in a faux motel. With the new Santa Monica Airport site, the 2025 edition features “Inside Out”, an ambitious series of public, site-specific works spread around the airport campus. These commissioned installations will explore perspectives on Los Angeles – touching on themes like personal histories and the city’s layered cultural landscape. It’s free for the public to enjoy during the fair, which is fantastic for broader community engagement. Don’t miss those outdoor installations; they’re often where the spirit of L.A. shines, merging art with the environment (imagine sculptures on runways or sound pieces you experience while walking between hangars). Beyond Frieze itself, the city offers a rich array of museum shows: check if LACMA(Los Angeles County Museum of Art) has its big annual contemporary show up, or if MOCA is debuting something around that time. The Hammer Museum in Westwood is known for edgy programming and could have a biennial-like exhibition of local artists (the “Made in L.A.” series, if the timing fits, is a must for insight into the LA scene). Another unique draw: the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel usually hosts the Felix Art Fair concurrently – a more relaxed fair where galleries take over cabana rooms and you browse art in poolside suites. Felix has a retro, intimate feel and is a nod to the early days of art fairs (and very L.A. with its Hollywood history backdrop). If you enjoy street art and murals, a drive or Metro trip to Downtown L.A.’s Arts District is worthwhile; you’ll see huge murals on warehouses (Shepard Fairey, RETNA, etc.), and you can pop into Hauser & Wirth’s massive gallery complex there which often has multiple exhibitions plus a lovely garden and restaurant on site.
Eat & Drink: L.A.’s food scene is incredibly diverse, mirroring its population. Near Santa Monica, you have plenty of beachy cafes and upscale dining. For a quick bite by the fair, Holy Cow BBQ or Burger Lounge in Santa Monica offer quality casual fare. But if you can venture slightly further, Gjelina in Venice on Abbot Kinney is a perennial favourite – California cuisine (think seasonal veggies and gourmet pizzas) in a stylish setting; it’s where you might find New York dealers having a relaxed lunch meeting with tech collectors from Silicon Valley. Coffee is key in L.A.: Intelligentsia in Venice or Alfred Coffee in Brentwood will give you that much-needed caffeine jolt (and a scene of its own). In the evening, there are a few strategies: stick to the west side or dive into other parts of town. On the west side, Cassia in Santa Monica blends French and Vietnamese influences for a chic dining experience (often full of art folk during Frieze). Nobu Malibu is further up the coast but if you can snag a reservation, it’s an experience – sushi with ocean waves crashing beside your table, and a decent chance of celebrity sightings. If you’re gallery-hopping in Hollywood or West Hollywood, grab tacos from a truck (like El Chato for late-night al pastor tacos) or dine at Jones Hollywood, a classic spot with rock ’n’ roll vibes and hearty Italian-American dishes that stay open late for post-opening gatherings. Health-conscious options abound too: in West Hollywood, Gracias Madre serves inventive vegan Mexican in a trendy courtyard (yes, that means coconut ceviche tostadas and dairy-free churros – and they’re good!). For a true LA classic, one morning hit Musso & Frank Grill in Hollywood – it’s more than a century old and stepping inside feels like a time warp; have a martini breakfast (why not, it’s Frieze week) or just eggs and pancakes while imagining golden-age movie deals struck in the booth next to you. And at least once, consider braving the traffic to head east and indulge in SGV (San Gabriel Valley) Chinese food – some of the best outside of Asia. Places like Din Tai Fung (for soup dumplings) or Sichuan Impression will reward you with flavours that remind you L.A. is a mosaic of cultures beyond the glitz.
Stay: Los Angeles is spread out, so where you stay might shape your Frieze experience. If you want to be near the fair, Santa Monica offers high-end options like Shutters on the Beach or Casa del Mar – both give you a beachfront luxury resort feel (imagine starting your day with a walk on the sand) while still being a short drive to the fair. In West Hollywood/Beverly Hills, favourites include Chateau Marmont, famed for its old Hollywood charm and privacy (celebrities and artists love it; it feels like staying in a storybook castle above Sunset Boulevard). The West Hollywood Edition is a newer player with a modern aesthetic and a rooftop hangout; it quickly became popular for art and fashion events. If you lean toward downtown’s artsy energy, The Ace Hotel Downtown LA is housed in a beautifully restored gothic-style theater building and has a young creative vibe (plus the convenience of being near MOCA, Broad, etc.). The Line Hotel in Koreatown is another hip choice – its lobby is a social hub, it has a cool Korean-inspired restaurant (Pot by chef Roy Choi), and it’s centrally located between the west side and downtown. Of course, luxe stalwarts like The Beverly Hills Hotel or Peninsula Beverly Hills will cocoon you in five-star service and glamour (and are likely to host a few collectors’ soirées). One interesting, intimate spot is Hotel Figueroa downtown – historically women-run, recently renovated in Spanish Mediterranean style, and it often hosts arts programming. Lastly, since this is L.A., some opt for renting a house in the hills or a modern Airbnb near Venice Beach – having a personal mid-century modern home with a pool and view can be appealing for group trips, and very in spirit with L.A.’s indoor-outdoor lifestyle.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Explore: Outside the fair’s confines, Los Angeles has endless discoveries. If you have a sunny afternoon, drive up the Pacific Coast Highway to Malibu – you could combine a visit to the Getty Villa (gorgeous seaside museum for antiquities, modelled after an ancient Roman villa) with a seafood lunch at Malibu Seafood shack or a surf-watching session at Malibu’s Surfrider Beach. For architecture fans, a tour of the Schindler House (MAK Center) in West Hollywood or the Eames House in Pacific Palisades can be inspiring, highlighting L.A.’s modernist legacy. Nature is part of L.A. life: consider a hike in Runyon Canyon or Griffith Park one morning – you might run into art people detoxing from parties with a bit of exercise. In Griffith Park you can also visit the Observatory for stunning city views and maybe catch a planetarium show – a nice reminder of the cosmos after all the earthly art. Fans of quirky sights might check out The Museum of Jurassic Technology in Culver City, an odd, enchanting little museum that defies explanation (a favourite haunt for the intellectually curious). If street culture is of interest, an evening at Dodger Stadium for a baseball game or checking out a local music show at Largo or the Troubadour can give a different taste of LA arts (music and performance). Finally, leave a bit of unplanned time – you never know when you’ll hear about a secret studio visit in Boyle Heights or an invite to a casual beach bonfire gathering of artists in Venice. That spontaneity and openness to the unexpected is very much the spirit of Los Angeles. Frieze Los Angeles is as much about absorbing that local ethos – the mix of ambition and chill, high culture and pop culture – as it is about seeing the art itself.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Frieze Seoul (Seoul, South Korea)
The newest star in the international art fair firmament is Frieze Seoul, which debuted in 2022 and instantly placed the South Korean capital on the itineraries of global art enthusiasts. Organized by the team behind Frieze London and L.A., Frieze Seoul is held each September and has quickly become a leading international art fair in Asia. The fourth edition is slated for September 3–6, 2025 at COEX in Gangnam – the dynamic heart of Seoul. With over 100 of the most influential galleries from Asia and around the world participating, Frieze Seoul offers local and international audiences an opportunity to explore top-tier art in a city famed for its technology, pop culture, and increasingly, its art scene.
Cultural Significance: Seoul’s emergence as an art hub has been a long time coming. South Korea has a strong collector base, world-class museums (Leeum, MMCA), and internationally recognized artists. The arrival of Frieze marked a watershed: it validated Seoul as a global art marketplace and a magnet for art tourism, much like Art Basel did for Hong Kong a decade prior. Importantly, Frieze Seoul runs alongside the long-established Kiaf Seoul (Korea’s major art fair, now happening concurrently at COEX). This tandem of an international fair with a local fair creates a critical mass of art activity now dubbed “Seoul Art Week.” The fairs complement each other: Frieze brings the blue-chip Western galleries and star international artists, while Kiaf features a wide array of Asian galleries (with many from Korea) and emerging talents. Culturally, this means Seoul for that week becomes one of the most diverse and comprehensive art showcases in the world. It celebrates Seoul’s thriving creative community and shines a spotlight on Korean artists – who have been gaining global recognition, from Dansaekhwa masters to contemporary multimedia artists. The fair also underscores Seoul’s role in the Hallyu (Korean Wave) of culture. People coming for Frieze might also be fans of K-pop, K-fashion, and K-cinema – and find connections between these and contemporary art. In short, Frieze Seoul isn’t just a commercial fair; it’s a cultural festival that positions Seoul as a pivotal meeting point for art scenes of East and West, North and South.
When & Where: Frieze Seoul takes place in early September (the 2025 dates are Sept 3–6). The venue, COEX, is a giant convention and exhibition centre in the Gangnam district. It’s a fittingly modern location – Gangnam is known for its sleek skyscrapers, K-pop entertainment agencies, luxury boutiques and the eponymous “Gangnam Style” song. COEX itself houses not only exhibition halls but also a shopping mall and even an aquarium. So, attending the fair is convenient and comfortable, with plenty of dining and entertainment next door. September in Seoul is late summer – often warm and humid, sometimes rainy – so the indoor venue is welcome, and luckily air-conditioned to handle the crowds. The fair spans a single level with a thoughtful layout and includes curated sections just like other Friezes. One thing to note: because Kiaf is also at COEX (usually in an adjacent hall or timed immediately after Frieze’s run), many visitors tackle two fairs in one trip, making it an art marathon week. Outside the fair, galleries across Seoul – especially in neighbourhoods like Samcheong-dong, Hannam-dong, and around the Leeum Museum in Itaewon – plan special exhibitions and events. The city’s efficient subway and taxis (and the now-famous Kakao maps/apps) make it relatively easy to navigate even for foreigners, despite the language barrier. English is often spoken in art circles, and signage for major events tends to be bilingual.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
City Character During Frieze: Seoul is a city of around 10 million, vibrant and fast-paced on any given day. During Frieze, that energy gets an artistic infusion. You’ll notice international visitors in fashionable attire moving through subway stations alongside locals, and trendy art parties lighting up stylish venues at night. Seoul’s character is a blend of cutting-edge modernity and deep tradition. One moment you might be in a futuristic gallery space, and the next you’re wandering by an ancient palace or a traditional market. Frieze attendees often get to experience both sides: an after-fair soju cocktail on a rooftop bar in skyscraper-laden Gangnam, followed by a serene morning walking under the hanok eaves (traditional tiled roofs) of Bukchon village before heading to the next art event. The city’s youth culture also influences the vibe – expect some K-pop idols or actors to appear at gallery openings, fashion pop-ups collaborating with artists, and perhaps even a K-pop performance at a Frieze-related gala. Yet everything runs with Korean efficiency. Lines are orderly, WiFi is ubiquitous (and super fast), and people are incredibly polite and helpful to visitors. There’s also a palpable pride among Seoulites that their city is hosting this global fair – you might overhear university students excitedly discussing a famous artist’s work they saw, or taxi drivers mentioning the art fair traffic with a sense of importance.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Must-See: Within Frieze Seoul, keep an eye out for the Asia-focused galleries – a strong representation sets this fair apart from its Western counterparts. Galleries from Seoul, Tokyo, Beijing, Taipei, Jakarta, and beyond bring works that might be less seen in Europe or America, giving a different flavour. The fair will likely have a section for emerging Asia-Pacific galleries or a curated project section highlighting Asian artists; these are a must for discovering new voices. Since Kiaf Seoul runs concurrently, plan time for it as well – Kiaf has hundreds of booths, including many Korean galleries showing local talents, and it’s a chance to see the broader spectrum of Asian contemporary art in one go (pro tip: your Frieze ticket might offer access or a discount to Kiaf, or vice versa, as they’ve coordinated closely). The Museums: Seoul boasts excellent institutions. The Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art in Itaewon is a gem – its collection ranges from traditional Korean pottery to contemporary installations (you might find a Yayoi Kusama pumpkin in the courtyard). During Frieze, Leeum often has a marquee show (in 2022 it was a global star like Anish Kapoor). The National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA) in Samcheong-dong, near the old palaces, is another must – it often features Korean contemporary art in depth and its location by Gyeongbokgung Palace makes for a great cultural double-header. PLATEAU (now part of MMCA Seoul) and Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA) are also noteworthy. And if you’re adventurous, a trip out to Storage by Hyundai Card or the Amorepacific Museum of Art can show you corporate collections in stunning modern architecture. Don’t forget the indie side: check if any art collectives or alternative spaces like Space One or Ilmin Museum have special events; Seoul has a thriving independent art scene beyond the blue chips. As an offbeat suggestion, technology and art intersect interestingly in Seoul – there might be media art shows or digital art experiences (TeamLab exhibitions or similar) which resonate in this high-tech environment. Finally, Seoul’s galleries are largely in three clusters: around Samcheong-dong, around Hannam-dong/Itaewon, and around Gangnam/Cheongdam. Each area is worth strolling. In Samcheong, traditional meets modern: small galleries in alleys near tea houses; in Hannam/Itaewon, chic new galleries (Kukje, Perrotin, Pace, etc.) in modern buildings set amid hip cafes; in Cheongdam, ultra-luxe galleries near flagship fashion boutiques. Experiencing all gives a full picture of Seoul’s art landscape.
Eat & Drink: Prepare your palate – Seoul is a food paradise, from street eats to haute cuisine. Start your day local-style with a hearty bowl of hangover soup (haejangguk) or ginseng chicken soup (samgyetang) to energize you (Yes, Koreans have soup for breakfast – and it’s fantastic). Near COEX in Gangnam, you’re spoiled for choices: one local favourite meal is KBBQ. Places like Yeontabal or Maple Tree House offer high-quality Korean barbecue where you grill right at the table – perfect for a group of gallery colleagues to unwind while grilling marinated short ribs and wrapping them in lettuce with a dab of ssamjang (sauce). If you’re short on time, a quick bite of bibimbap (mixed rice with veggies and meat) or kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) at the COEX food court can be surprisingly good. For fine dining, Seoul has been earning Michelin stars lately: Mingles (creative modern Korean), Joo Ok, or La Yeon (traditional Korean in a formal setting) are top picks – book ahead. But also consider the simpler joints: some of the best food experiences might be at a bustling Kwangjang Market, devouring bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) and mayak kimbap (addictive mini seaweed rice rolls) at a stall, washed down with makgeolli (rice brew) alongside locals. Street food in Myeongdong – spicy rice cakes (tteokbokki), and skewered fish cake (eomuk) – is a must for a quick snack between gallery visits. For coffee and cafe culture, Seoul is unrivalled. In Samcheong-dong, drop into a hanok cafe like Cafe Yeonnam Bangagan for traditional tea and quiet gardens. In Hannam-dong, ultra-hip Café Kitsuné or Anthracite Coffee draw the creative crowd. Nightlife: try a Korean craft beer at Magpie Brewing or Craft Hans if beer is your thing, or partake in soju and makgeolli at a classic pojangmacha (tent bar) if you want something very local. You can even do a refined tasting of traditional liquors at Moonbird Does Think of Only Moon – a hidden hanok bar. And of course, if you haven’t experienced it, a Korean noraebang (karaoke room) with colleagues can be a hilarious bonding late-night activity after all the serious art talk. It’s common to end the night with some spicy soft tofu stew (sundubu) or fried chicken to stave off the next day’s soju consequences.
Stay: Seoul offers everything from luxury hotels to boutique design stays. Many international visitors opt for hotels in Gangnam for proximity to COEX – Signiel Seoul in the Lotte World Tower is Seoul’s tallest (with incredible views and five-star service), while InterContinental COEX is literally attached to the venue (ultra-convenient). In central areas like Myeongdong/Jongno (closer to museums and palaces), The Four Seasons Seoul is a sumptuous choice mixing modern and Korean aesthetics, and The Shilla Seoul is a longstanding luxury hotel set on a hill with its own serene gardens. For a boutiquey experience, the RYSE Hotel in Hongdae stands out – it’s artsy, youthful and has hosted art events (the area is more student-and-indie-music oriented, but the hotel is very design-driven). Mondrian Seoul Itaewon is another hip hotel, well-located near many galleries and nightlife, with a vibrant pool scene and contemporary art in the lobby. If you want to immerse in tradition, try a hanok stay: there are guesthouses in Bukchon where you sleep on futons on heated floors in wooden houses – an unforgettable cultural experience, though with fewer amenities (an interesting contrast to the high-gloss Frieze environment by day). Seoul is also Airbnb-friendly, so some visitors rent modern apartments in Gangnam or quaint lofts in Itaewon if staying longer. Wherever you stay, consider proximity to a subway line – Seoul’s subway can whisk you to COEX or anywhere efficiently, so you aren’t stuck in traffic.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Explore: Between fair days or after the art overload, soak in what else Seoul has to offer. Stroll the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace, especially if they have a changing of the guard ceremony – the architecture and ceremony connect you to centuries of Korean history. In contrast, wander the lively streets of Hongdae or Ewha University area to feel the youthful pulse – street performers, cheap fashion shops and cute dessert cafes. A unique activity is visiting a jjimjilbang (Korean spa) like Dragon Hill Spa – relax in various hot rooms and baths; it’s a very Korean way to unwind (yes, you change into spa pyjamas and sweat out those art fair toxins in charcoal saunas). If you’re into tech, the Starfield Library in COEX mall is an Instagram-famous spot – a library inside a mall, with towering bookshelves – worth a peek as you’re right there. For nature within the city, hike up Namsan to Seoul Tower for a panoramic view, or go to Bukhansan National Park on the city’s edge for more serious hiking (if you have a half-day free) – you’ll see a stunning view of the city sprawl below and perhaps meet hiking-enthusiast locals who often celebrate summiting with a little soju picnic. As for shopping (if you caught the K-fashion bug), areas like Garosu-gil in Sinsa or Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) late-night markets can be fun – at DDP you have both Zaha Hadid’s architecture and 24-hour wholesale fashion booths. And perhaps most memorably, engage with the Korean concept of “honsul/honbap” – enjoying a drink or meal alone. If you have a solo moment, sit at a convenience store patio with a can of locally brewed beer or banana milk and just people-watch. Seoul’s everyday life – couples in matching outfits, schoolkids with their K-pop adorned backpacks, the LED glow of signage everywhere – is vibrant and endearing. By the time Frieze Seoul wraps up, you’ll likely be enchanted by how seamlessly Seoul blends old traditions with the ultra-contemporary – not unlike how the fair itself blends global art trends with local culture. As you depart, don’t be surprised if you’re already planning a trip back (perhaps for next spring’s cherry blossoms or another art event), as Seoul has a way of lingering fondly in one’s heart.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Bienal de São Paulo (São Paulo, Brazil)
Bienvenidos (or rather, bem-vindos) to São Paulo Bienal, the granddaddy of art biennials in the Americas and second only to Venice in age and prestige. Founded in 1951, the Bienal de São Paulo is “the most important event for contemporary art in the Southern Hemisphere — and the second oldest in the world, after the Venice Biennale”. It takes place every two years in São Paulo’s lush Ibirapuera Park, filling the Ciccillo Matarazzo Pavilion (a landmark modernist building by Oscar Niemeyer) with a sprawling, monthslong exhibition. Typically running from September through early December (the 35th Bienal in 2023 ran Sept 6 – Dec 10), it showcases dozens of countries and a huge roster of artists – in 2023 there were 121 artists from all over, 80% of whom were non-white, signalling a strong focus on the Global South and underrepresented voices. For art lovers, the São Paulo Bienal is an adventure into cutting-edge art framed by a dynamic, culturally rich city.
Cultural Significance: The São Paulo Bienal has played a crucial role in bringing international contemporary art to Latin America and vice versa. It was established in a spirit similar to Venice’s, as a platform for global art dialogue – but also to assert Brazil’s own cultural power post-World War II. Over the decades, it has introduced Brazilians to movements like Pop, Minimalism, and conceptual art, while also elevating Latin American and African artists onto the world stage. Many historic moments happened here (from controversial political artworks during Brazil’s dictatorship era to prize-winning installations by emerging artists). Today, it remains hugely significant as a mirror and provocateur of contemporary issues – the 2023 edition, for instance, was titled Choreographies of the Impossible and was noted for offering a “journey that serves as an alternate history of 20th and 21st-century art, less centred on Western hegemony”. In other words, São Paulo often uses its biennial to challenge the status quo and highlight diversity, decolonial narratives, and social justice themes. It has also been a barometer of Brazil’s society – often reflecting on topics like colonial legacy, indigenous rights, and political upheavals through art. For the international art community, this Bienal is a must to discover artists from Latin America, Africa, and Asia in a context that values experimental, politically engaged art. It’s free to the public, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors, from local school kids to globe-trotting curators. As a travel experience, attending the Bienal also means immersing in Brazil’s vibrant cultural scene – music, food, design, and that Brazilian zest for life.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
When & Where: The Bienal calls the Ibirapuera Park home – São Paulo’s equivalent of Central Park – a sprawling green oasis in the concrete jungle. The Niemeyer pavilion is itself worth seeing: a white modernist edifice with an open-plan interior where ramps swirl between floors, allowing a continuous exhibition flow. The show typically opens in early September (often aligning with Brazil’s Independence Day on Sept 7) and runs through early December, giving plenty of time to visit. If you can, go for the opening week or the final week; the opening week has the art world converging with many events, while final week often has performances or the atmosphere of seeing it at its climatic moment. São Paulo in these months is heading into spring/summer – weather can be warm, occasionally rainy. The park setting is lovely; you can combine art viewing with a picnic or stroll by the park’s lake under tropical trees. Aside from the main pavilion, there are sometimes outdoor sculptures or installations around the park, and occasionally satellite shows in other venues. The Bienal Foundation also organizes programs in the city; keep an eye out for film screenings, talks, or parallel shows in venues like SESC Pompeia or MasP (Museum of Art of São Paulo). São Paulo is huge and traffic notorious, but the Ibirapuera area is quite central, near upscale neighbourhoods like Jardins and Vila Mariana. Many neighbourhoods (like Vila Madalena, Pinheiros) will have gallery shows timed with the Bienal too – much like Frieze week, you get a citywide art buzz.
City Character During Bienal: São Paulo is a monster of a metropolis – Brazil’s largest city – often initially perceived as a concrete maze. But spend time here and you discover a city bursting with creativity, diverse cultures (huge Italian, Japanese, Arab, African diasporas), and an energy akin to NYC or Mexico City. During Bienal, the city’s creative sectors mobilize. There’s usually a São Paulo art fair (SP-Arte) either concurrently or in alternate years, plus gallery nights and parties. The Bienal often coincides with the Primavera dos Museus (Spring of the Museums) festival too. You’ll find the art crowd sipping caipirinhas at rooftop bars in Jardins, and intellectuals debating pieces over coffee at Casa das Rosas (a cultural centre in an old mansion on Paulista Ave). Despite its size, Paulistanos (city residents) are friendly and many speak some English or Spanish. The city’s character is more businesslike than Rio, but also cosmopolitan – one moment you might be in a slick lounge with DJs spinning Brazilian electro-jazz, another in a samba dive bar where locals dance with joyous abandon. Street art is everywhere (São Paulo is famed for its graffiti; take a trip to Beco do Batman alley in Vila Madalena to see colourful murals). During Bienal, expect pop-up events: maybe an artist collective doing an intervention in a downtown square, or special gallery shows for emerging Brazilian artists. The vibe can be gritty but also sophisticated. And the sheer scale of Sampa (as locals nickname it) means you can find whatever scene you’re looking for – luxury shopping on Oscar Freire, underground clubs in Barra Funda, or traditional Sunday afternoon gatherings on Paulista Avenue (closed to cars on Sundays, turning the city’s main artery into a pedestrian party with performers and cyclists). The Bienal adds an extra dose of art-minded tourists and professionals to this mix, and you might find yourself making friends easily – Brazilians are generally warm and curious, especially if you show enthusiasm for their culture.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Must-See: Obviously, the Bienal exhibition itself is the crown jewel. Plan at least a full day (the show is large). The exhibition is curated by a team or single curator who gives it a theme; explores it slowly and notices how they often integrate Brazilian art with international works in dialogue. Look out for the winners of the Bienal’s awards (if they still do those) – historically, artists who made big impressions at SP have gone on to major international acclaim. Past editions have had memorable installations: e.g. in 2016, an artist flooded a section of the pavilion with a pool of dark water you had to navigate via bridges; in 2010, a “Bienal of Void” left much of the pavilion empty except political statements – so one never knows what bold approach might come. The Ciccillo Matarazzo Pavilion architecture itself is part of the experience: how artworks play in that space is often part of the curatorial plan. Outside the Bienal, check out the rest of Ibirapuera Park: there are other Niemeyer buildings like the Oca (a dome-shaped exhibition hall) and the Auditório Ibirapuera (concert hall) painted in red and white curves. The Museu Afro Brasil in the park is excellent, showcasing Afro-Brazilian art and history (worth visiting to complement contemporary art with cultural context). Beyond the park, São Paulo’s museums beckon: MASP on Paulista Ave is iconic (suspended red structure) and holds a stellar collection from European masters to Latin American modernists, plus contemporary shows – during Bienal, they often have a special exhibit complementing it (perhaps a Brazilian modern art retrospective). Pinacoteca do Estado near Luz is another must – a beautiful 19th-century museum of Brazilian art, often blending old and new in its airy atrium (plus there’s a lovely sculpture garden). If interested in street art/graffiti as fine art, the Choque Cultural Gallery is a pioneering space for that scene. And if architecture is your thing, don’t miss seeing some of São Paulo’s famous buildings: the Copan Building (Oscar Niemeyer’s wavy apartment tower downtown) you can sometimes tour, or just enjoy the vista from Edifício Itália’s rooftop. If you crave a break from art, a Brazilian football (soccer) match at Pacaembu or Morumbi stadium is an adrenaline cultural experience – Paulistanos are passionate fans.
Eat & Drink: São Paulo is arguably Latin America’s food capital. The Italian community ensures you can get top-notch pizza and pasta (locals brag SP pizza rivals Italy’s). Braz Elettrica or Casarìa are popular pizzerias. But let’s focus on unique local fare: You must try a rodízio style steakhouse (churrascaria) at least once – waiters come around carving unlimited grilled meats; Fogo de Chão or Vento Haragano are classic options (go very hungry!). For something quick in Ibirapuera Park, there are food kiosks – maybe grab a pastel (fried pastry with fillings like cheese or meat) and sugarcane juice. Lunchtime, Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) is a pilgrimage: a vast market hall where you should try the famous mortadella sandwich (a monster stack of mortadella in bread) and a fresh-sliced mango or exotic fruit smoothie. Feijoada is Brazil’s beloved black bean stew – some restaurants do Feijoada on Fridays or weekends; Bolinha or Consulado Mineiro serve authentic versions with all the fixings (collard greens, orange slices, farofa). International cuisine in SP is also superb: for Japanese (The Liberdade neighbourhood is Japantown), consider Restaurant Aizomê (more high-end) or casual sushi at Sushiguen. For contemporary Brazilian gastronomy, D.O.M. by chef Alex Atala is world-renowned (Amazonian ingredients in haute cuisine form) – expensive but unforgettable. More casual but stylish is Maní, run by Helena Rizzo, blending Brazilian ingredients with European techniques. Street snacks: don’t miss coxinha, a teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken – found at any bakery. And brigadeiro, the chocolate fudge ball that is Brazil’s national sweet; try one from Maria Brigadeiro’s shop for a gourmet twist. Coffee is an art in Brazil too – Cafés like Coffee Lab in Vila Madalena or Octavio in Jardins treat it seriously, with Brazilian beans of course. Drinks: Start evenings with a caipirinha (cachaça, sugar, lime) – or try variants with passionfruit or other fruits. SubAstor in Vila Madalena is a speakeasy bar rated among the best in the world; Frank Bar at Maksoud Hotel does craft cocktails with Brazilian flair. Beer lovers: microbrewery Emporio Alto dos Pinheiros has an extensive Brazilian craft beer list to sample. Nightlife in SP ranges from samba clubs (like Bar Samba in Vila Madalena where live samba bands play and everyone dances) to chic nightclubs (like D-Edge for electronic music aficionados). Don’t leave without trying Brazilian churrasco barbecue done the home-style way – maybe you’ll be lucky to be invited to someone’s house for a Sunday BBQ, otherwise, some botecos (bars) set up sidewalk grills. And if you wander into a padaria (bakery) in the morning, you can have the classic São Paulo breakfast: a pingado (milk and coffee) with a warm pão na chapa (buttered baguette toast), simple but satisfying.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Stay: São Paulo has all ranges of accommodation. For those wanting to indulge, Hotel Unique in Jardins is a destination itself – the building is shaped like a giant boat or watermelon slice, and its rooftop Skye Bar & Pool is a scene with skyline views; rooms are ultra-modern and arty. Fasano in Jardins is another luxury choice blending European elegance and Brazilian touches, with a renowned jazz bar. Closer to the park, Hotel Unique Garden or Pullman Ibirapuera offer comfort and walking distance to Bienal. A lot of art professionals stay around Paulista Avenue for convenience: Renaissance São Paulo is a solid choice with good service and a location near galleries/shopping. Also on Paulista is the Tivoli Mofarrej which houses a spa and the super-chic restaurant Seen – a hotspot for dinner/drinks with a view. If you prefer more bohemian quarters, consider a boutique hotel in Vila Madalena or Pinheiros – Hotel Vila Madalena or some design hostels like O de Casa Hostel or Cidade Matarazzo (the new Rosewood São Paulo, part of a cultural complex of restored historic buildings and modern architecture, merging luxury with art – though pricey, it boasts an art collection of 450 works by Brazilian artists, practically an art tour in itself). For budget travellers, Airbnbs in Jardins or Itaim can be good – safe neighborhoods, and many restaurants around. Transportation: ideally, stay somewhere you can easily get a taxi or use the metro (the metro is clean and safe, but doesn’t cover the entire city). Note that traffic means 5 km can take 30 min at times, so being central is worth it. Some visitors opt to stay in Centro (downtown) to be near cultural sites and get a gritty historic vibe – there’s the Luz Hotel or Palácio Tangará (though Tangará is actually in a green area a bit out of centre, extremely luxurious within a park if isolation and calm is your style). Wherever you stay, engage with locals – Paulistanos are proud of their city’s hidden charms and often eager to show it off.
Explore: São Paulo’s slogan is “não pode parar” – it never stops. But do take a pause from the Bienal to explore beyond art. Music: maybe catch live bossa nova or MPB (Brazilian popular music) at Bourbon Street Music Club or an edgy indie band at Theatro Mars. Football: If you can see Corinthians or Palmeiras play, do – Brazilian fan culture is intense and thrilling (chanting, drumming, banner-waving). Markets: On weekends, the Feira Benedito Calixto in Pinheiros is a lovely antiques and crafts market with live chorinho music and street food (try a pastel de feira here with a cold chope beer). For souvenirs beyond typical crafts, consider picking up some Brazilian design objects – São Paulo has cool design shops like Tok&Stok (for modern home items) or independent fashion from Brazilian designers in malls like Iguatemi or Shopping Cidade Jardim (though high-end). If you can swing a day trip: Inhotim (a massive outdoor contemporary art park) is in Minas Gerais state, a flight away – not feasible in a short trip, but some art tourists combine it. Closer is Embu das Artes, an artsy town an hour from SP known for its crafts market. Also, São Paulo’s surroundings have some lovely nature if you crave green: Serra da Cantareira north of the city offers hiking with potential monkey sightings, or head to the coast (around 1.5-2h drive) to Guarujá or Maresias for beaches if time permits after Bienal. But one could argue the true beauty of São Paulo is in its people and culture, not scenic sights. Engage: perhaps attend a capoeira performance (Afro-Brazilian martial art/dance) or a samba school rehearsal (even outside Carnival season, samba schools practice and welcome visitors). These experiences unlock the soul of Brazil: joyful, communal, and expressive – the same qualities often reflected in Bienal’s most powerful artworks. By the end of your São Paulo sojourn, between the thought-provoking art and the life-affirming local culture, you’ll likely carry with you a bit of that Brazilian warmth and creative spark – and an expanded notion of what contemporary art can be and do in today’s world.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Sharjah Biennial (Sharjah, United Arab Emirates)
In the Persian Gulf, far from the traditional art capitals, the Sharjah Biennial has steadily risen as one of the most influential art events in the Middle East. Founded in 1993, it has grown from a modest, regional exhibit into an internationally recognised platform for contemporary art. Often described as the epicentre of Arab art, the Sharjah Biennial is held roughly every two years (recent editions in 2019 and 2023), turning the spotlight on global art with a particular focus on the Middle East, North Africa, and South Asia. It usually runs in the spring for a few months (SB15 in 2023 spanned Feb 7 – June 11). Curated by the Sharjah Art Foundation under the patronage of the ruling Al Qasimi family, it brings cutting-edge installations, performances, and films to venues across the emirate of Sharjah – from modern galleries to historic courtyards.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Cultural Significance: The Sharjah Biennial is widely regarded as one of the most prestigious and forward-thinking contemporary art events in the region. It has played a pioneering role in enriching the cultural landscape of the Gulf by commissioning and presenting innovative art experiences for the local community while offering an international platform for artists from the region. This Biennial was among the first to introduce contemporary art discourse to the UAE well before the flashier museums of Abu Dhabi or art fairs of Dubai emerged. It has a reputation for bold, themes—often tackling social, political, and cultural topics head-on in a way local government-sponsored events might not. Over the years, it has featured prominent names (the late Okwui Enwezor had conceptual input on SB15, for instance) and shone a light on artists from Africa, South Asia, and the Arab world that may be overlooked in Western-centric circuits. The Biennial’s growth mirrored the transformation of Sharjah itself from a conservative enclave to a cultural powerhouse. Sharjah Biennial is free and open to all, which aligns with its mission of engaging the diverse communities of the UAE – including many expatriates and migrant communities that call Sharjah home. For the global art world, the Sharjah Biennial offers fresh perspectives and often a chance to see ambitious large-scale projects – SB15 featured over 150 artists from more than 70 countries, effectively serving as a nexus for global south dialogues. Importantly, it does so in an environment distinct from a commercial art fair: Sharjah is dry (no alcohol) and rather scholarly in tone, so the focus remains on art and ideas, not on the glitz. Many who attend speak of it as a more contemplative, engaging experience – you might find artists, curators, and critics deep in conversation in the courtyard of Sharjah’s art area, forging connections that last well beyond the biennial.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
When & Where: The Biennial exhibitions are spread across Sharjah city and sometimes other towns in the emirate. Key venues include the Sharjah Art Foundation (SAF) Art Spaces – a complex of contemporary galleries in Sharjah’s historic Al Mureijah area – and the Sharjah Art Museum, as well as various heritage houses and courtyards in the charming Arts and Heritage Areas of Sharjah old town. Occasionally, sites farther afield are used (for SB15, some works were in Kalba on the Gulf of Oman coast). Sharjah City is about 30 30-minute drive from Dubai, and many visitors base themselves in Dubai’s hotels, shuttling in daily. But staying in Sharjah itself can be rewarding to soak up its more traditional vibe. The events kick off with an opening week full of talks, performances, and the famous SAF March Meeting – a symposium of art professionals discussing the biennial’s themes. Weather in April is generally pleasant (20s °C, though can get hot by late spring). The city of Sharjah is quieter and more conservative than Dubai – women should dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees) especially when visiting mosques or heritage areas, although within art events the atmosphere is relaxed. The Biennial’s presence is noticeable: banners around the city’s Corniche, and a stream of buses ferrying guests to venues. It’s quite possible to walk between many central venues: the Arts Area has SAF galleries, and just across the pedestrianized stretch is the Souq Al Arsah and the Heritage Quarter. Sharjah’s pace is unhurried; you might wander from a cutting-edge video installation housed in a centuries-old coral brick house straight into a local bakery’s doorway by accident.
City Character During Biennial: Sharjah during the Biennial exudes a subtle buzz. It’s not a party town – evenings are relatively low-key and the city is quiet at night – but you’ll find the cafes and restaurants in the arts district full of animated discussions in many languages. Sharjah’s character is often described as the cultural heart of the UAE – it invests heavily in arts and literature (hosting an international book fair), and preserving Emirati heritage. During Biennial time, this traditional ethos meets contemporary art head-on. The city’s normally family-oriented public parks and waterfront promenades now might host an outdoor sculpture or performance art piece. Residents, including many Emirati families and South Asian expats, often get curious and mingle with international art visitors at these public programs. Sharjah’s corniche (waterfront) is beautiful at sunset – you might see groups from the Biennial strolling there after a day of exhibitions, perhaps heading to the modern Rain Room installation (a permanent SAF piece where you walk through rain without getting wet). Importantly, Sharjah’s ruler, Sheikh Dr. Sultan Al Qasimi, is a patron of arts and often personally engages with the Biennial – this support gives the Biennial a unique position to push boundaries safely. Still, content is sometimes toned to local sensitivities (e.g. nudity or very explicit political content might be handled carefully), but overall Sharjah Biennial has been quite progressive. The presence of Sharjah’s large expat communities (from Pakistani to Filipino to Sudanese) also means you hear diverse languages and see different faces in the crowd, giving it a more global community feel than a homogeneous art scene. It’s a bit of a contrast to the luxury and commerce of neighbouring Dubai – Sharjah’s art scene feels more grassroots and community-driven, with a human touch (and yes, some “subtle imperfections” like occasional logistical quirks, which ironically add to its charm and authenticity).
Must-See: Apart from the main Biennial exhibitions themselves (which typically feature contemporary art in all media: painting, video, installation, performance, often new commissions), Sharjah Biennial is known for its site-specific works. Make sure to see art in the more unusual venues: for instance, previous editions had works set up in a vegetable market, in traditional courtyards, or in old forts. These give a unique context. The SAF Art Spaces are purpose-built galleries where you’ll see many large installations. The Sharjah Art Museum might host more formal displays or retrospectives tied to the Biennial. One staple to visit is SAF’s Mirrored Gardens or installations like the Flying Saucer (a retro Futurist circular building turned art venue). Check the schedule for performances or film screenings at night; the Biennial often invites performance artists or experimental musicians for one-off shows that are real highlights. Also, the Sharjah Biennial usually has a prize or juried award – find out which artist won or got a special mention and see their piece; it’s likely among the most discussed. Beyond the Biennial, Sharjah has a string of speciality museums worth peeking into if time allows: the Sharjah Calligraphy Museum, Islamic Civilization Museum, and Sharjah Aquarium, to name a few. They’re small but give insight into local culture (the Islamic museum is particularly beautiful and informative). If in town for a few days, consider a short trip to Al Noor Island – a picturesque island park with art sculptures and a butterfly house, representing Sharjah’s blending of nature and art. And, if you can coordinate, SAF often arranges excursions to sites like Kalba or the desert if there’s art installed there – a chance to see other parts of Sharjah outside the city: mangroves, coastline, or dunes, with art interjections.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Eat & Drink: Sharjah’s culinary scene, like the UAE at large, is diverse and delicious, though not as fancy as Dubai’s. Near the art area, a favourite is the Arabian Tea House café – set in a quaint courtyard, it’s perfect for mint lemonades, Arabic coffee and hearty Emirati dishes like balaleet (sweet saffron noodles with egg) or machboos (spiced rice and meat). For local flavour, try Mandi (Yemeni slow-cooked meat and rice) at a place like Bait Al Mandi, or head to Najmat Lahore for Pakistani cuisine – Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi herself recommends it for the palak paneer and ginger chicken, a testament to Sharjah’s love for South Asian food. Indeed, Pakistani and Indian restaurants are everywhere: from casual biryani joints to sweet shops selling jalebi and chai. Iraqi grilled fish is another must-try in Sharjah – the Maskoof Al Iraqi restaurant serves up masgouf (grilled carp) in traditional style; as per local insider tips, go for a half-fish unless you’re in a group because the portions are huge. Being a dry emirate, there are no bars, but evenings can be spent at coffee shops along the Buhaira Corniche with a shisha (waterpipe) and tea. Fen Café & Restaurant is actually part of Sharjah Art Foundation– a stylish café where art visitors congregate, offering contemporary dishes and great coffee, set amid the art spaces. For something quick, Sharjah has many street shawarma stands and karak chai (strong spiced tea with milk) kiosks – inexpensive and tasty for a mid-tour refuel. The Central Souk area has cafes where you can try fresh juice – the region is big on fruit juices like pomegranate, mango, etc. If you have a sweet tooth, hunt down luqaimat – hot doughnut-like dough balls drizzled with date syrup and sesame, often sold at festival stands or traditional restaurants; they’re a classic Emirati treat often served at events (maybe you’ll find some at a Biennial reception!). Being next to the sea, fresh fish is also part of the cuisine: grilled or fried hammour (grouper) is common in Arabic restaurants. And don’t forget to sample dates – perhaps at the Date Festival if coinciding, or just from a market. Some cultural centres like Maraya Art Centre in the nearby Al Qasba Canal Quarter have nice eateries too. Also, keep an eye out if any special dining experiences are organized during opening week (they occasionally do communal artist dinners or such).
Stay: Many Biennial visitors stay in Dubai for its wider hotel options and drive or take a shuttle to Sharjah daily (approximately a 30-40 min ride, though can be longer with traffic). But Sharjah has some gems too. The standout is The Chedi Al Bait, Sharjah, a luxury boutique hotel in the Heart of Sharjah heritage area, built across restored historic houses. It offers an immersive experience – rooms with Arabian decor, courtyards, a spa – and is walking distance to art sites. Staying there, you’re basically living in a piece of Sharjah’s history while enjoying modern five-star hospitality (and a private library and art gallery on-site). For more budget-friendly, Centro Sharjah or Hilton Sharjah are decent, the latter overlooking Khalid Lagoon with nice views. Sharjah Premiere Hotel and Royal Tulip 72 are also often used for art events accommodation. If you prefer the beach resort vibe, Sheraton Sharjah Beach Resort gives you a seaside retreat (though a bit farther from the art venues). Another unique option: Sharjah has been developing eco-retreats – if you fancy a break after art-ing, the Kingfisher Lodge in Kalba offers glamping by the mangroves (more for nature enthusiasts, not near the city). For a different cultural immersion, consider a night in the desert: Mleiha Archaeological Centre sometimes offers star-gazing camping which, while not exactly hotel luxury, is a memorable experience under desert skies and can contextualize the region’s history (Mleiha has fascinating pre-Islamic archaeology). Regardless of where, note Sharjah’s Friday (holy day) means many places are open late or not at all until the afternoon, so plan around that.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Explore: The Biennial will keep you busy, but if you have spare time, delving into Sharjah’s cultural and natural offerings is rewarding. Walk through the Heart of Sharjah district – it’s an ongoing restoration project of the old town. There you find art studios, heritage museums like Bait Al Naboodah (traditional pearl merchant’s house), and quaint alleys – it’s especially atmospheric in the evening with ornate lanterns. The Sharjah Blue Souk (Central Market) is a landmark – beautiful blue tile-clad buildings with wind towers – good for browsing carpets, jewellery, and souvenirs in a throwback setting. Families might enjoy Sharjah Desert Park with its Wildlife Centre showcasing Arabian oryx and other desert animals. If you can manage a half-day excursion, the Sharjah desert itself is not far: a dune-bashing or desert safari trip could be organized – experiencing the vast dunes and maybe a Bedouin-style camp dinner is something many enjoy, and it contrasts with the city’s coastal feel. Another hidden treasure: Sharjah Calligraphy Trail – scattered artworks and plaques around the city celebrating Arabic calligraphy, linking with the Calligraphy Biennial that Sharjah also hosts. For a modern contrast, check out Al Qasba – a leisure district along a canal with a Ferris wheel (the Eye of the Emirates), eateries, and Maraya Art Centre (a contemporary art space separate from the Biennial but often with cool exhibits, plus the Barjeel Art Foundation’s collection of modern Arab art). Art aside, a visit to Sharjah Mosque (the grand newly opened mosque) is worthwhile if you appreciate architecture – it’s one of the largest mosques in the UAE, and non-Muslims can visit outside prayer times respectfully (dressing modestly and using provided abayas if needed) to admire the Ottoman-inspired design. If the Biennial has projects in other Emirates (sometimes they collaborate with institutions in Dubai or Abu Dhabi), it could be a chance to see those cities too – but even if not, you might consider a side trip to Dubai(30 minutes away) to see the stark difference: skyscrapers, the Louvre Abu Dhabi (an hour+ to AD though), etc. However, many art pilgrims find Sharjah’s slower, sincere pace a refreshing change – you can wander safe streets at night hearing crickets and the call to prayer, in between heady art discussions. As Sheikha Hoor suggested in her guide, Sharjah is about authenticity – giant fish on flames at a local Iraqi eatery, honey shops hidden behind the souq and genuine cultural exchange. The Sharjah Biennial captures that spirit: unpretentious, deeply rooted yet globally minded, and certainly one of the art world’s most enriching travel experiences.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Documenta (Kassel, Germany)
Every five years, the quiet city of Kassel in central Germany becomes the centre of the contemporary art universe with Documenta, an exhibition so renowned it’s often called the “Museum of 100 Days.” Founded in 1955 by artist and curator Arnold Bode, Documenta was conceived as a post-war project to reconnect Germany with the avant-garde and confront modern art which had been suppressed by the Nazis. From those beginnings, it has evolved into what the University of Pennsylvania notes is “the most important international art show in the world”. It takes place every five years (the latest was Documenta 15 in 2022, next due 2027) and showcases cutting-edge, often challenging art that aims to capture the zeitgeist. Unlike an annual biennial or fair, Documenta’s infrequency and non-commercial ethos give it a singular gravitas; artists often produce their most ambitious works for it, knowing it’s a once-in-a-lifetime statement in many cases.
Cultural Significance: Documenta has a legendary status in contemporary art. It established itself through decades of groundbreaking editions – from Harald Szeemann’s game-changing curatorship in 1972 that embraced conceptual art, to Catherine David’s globally conscious Documenta X in 1997, and the more recent Documenta 14 (2017) which controversially split between Kassel and Athens. As a platform, Documenta prides itself on being a radical, experimental space for art and ideas, often looking at art’s social and political role. It’s been described as a “crucial platform for artistic innovation” and indeed many art movements and artists gained wider recognition through Documenta. For instance, post-war abstraction gained acceptance via early Documentas; more recently, Documenta 13 (2012) highlighted post-colonial voices and environmental issues long before they became mainstream in biennials. Documenta is also famous for not shying away from controversy or debate – the latest edition in 2022 (curated by Indonesian collective Ruangrupa) sparked intense conversations about anti-colonial approaches and even allegations of antisemitic imagery, proving that it remains at the heart of charged cultural discourse. For the city of Kassel, Documenta is a point of pride and identity (Kassel even styles itself “Documenta-Stadt”). Historically, its founding was significant: a decimated Kassel, largely destroyed in WWII, used art to signal a new beginning and commitment to open dialogue. Over time, Documenta’s influence has extended worldwide – it inspired the creation of biennials across the globe. But no matter how many biennials exist (and there are indeed over 300 globally now), Documenta stands apart for its scale (usually 100+ artists), intellectual ambition, and the fact that it’s not recurring frequently, giving it a certain Olympic-like importance.
When & Where: Kassel is a small city (population ~200k) in the state of Hesse, not typically a tourist magnet except during Documenta. When Documenta arrives (usually mid-June to mid-September of the year it’s held), Kassel transforms: museum venues brim with installations, city parks sprout sculptures, disused warehouses become art sites, and the influx of visitors from around the world roughly matches local residents in number. Main venues include the Fridericianum (one of Europe’s oldest museums, essentially Documenta’s anchor site), the Documenta Halle (a hall built in 1992 for Documenta artworks), the Neue Galerie, Ottoneum (natural history museum often repurposed for art), and various others like churches or cinemas, depending on each edition’s needs. Outdoors, the expansive Karlsruhe Park(with the Orangerie and the grand statue of Hercules atop Wilhelmshöhe visible from afar) often hosts large artworks or performances. Perhaps most iconic: Fredericianum’s lawn or façade tends to feature something memorable each time (like the giant stack of books “Parthenon of Books” in 2017 referencing banned literature). Documenta’s spread across Kassel encourages exploration of the city – from the baroque Karlsaue Park by the river Fulda to the industrial Kulturbahnhof by the train station. Most venues are walkable or reachable by Kassel’s trams. The experience usually requires 2-3 days to see thoroughly. The “100 days” tradition means it runs a bit over three months continuously. Kassel in summer is mild and green, occasionally rainy. Infrastructure-wise, Kassel gears up with tourist info points, special bus lines, and extended hours for cafes and bars. Locals often rent out rooms (Documenta Airbnb, effectively) as hotels fill up. The atmosphere in town is one of excitement – imagine the quiet town suddenly abuzz with foreign languages, pop-up bookstores, art students sketching in corners, performance art erupting in a plaza, and banners everywhere marking the event.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
City Character During Documenta: Kassel has a humble, working-class feel normally – known for its historical parks and as the home of the Brothers Grimm for a period (there’s a Grimm Museum, given their fairy tales were compiled here). During Documenta, that calm is punctuated by art interventions: you might see, say, a huge fibreglass whale suspended in a plaza or hear sound art emanating from a tram. Yet, Kassel embraces it without pretension. Locals volunteer as guides, schoolkids visit on field trips, and everyone from pensioners to professors attend the many public lectures and tours. Documenta often leaves behind permanent artworks in Kassel as a legacy. So as you stroll, you find remnants like Joseph Beuys’ 7000 Oak trees (he planted oaks with basalt stones in 1982 – now grown into an urban forest piece), or Rebecca Horn’s man-high periscope installation on a street corner, or the frame of Hanneke’s “Ascension” sculpture on the river. These have become part of Kassel’s fabric. There’s a sense of civic ownership of Documenta – even those who are not art aficionados are proud of it. Businesses hang welcome signs. The local taverns might host an artist or two unwinding with a beer and bratwurst. It’s a genuine melding of contemporary global art with small-city Germany. As a visitor, you get to experience not just art but German summer life – people bike through parks (maybe passing a performance on the grass), markets sell strawberries and white asparagus, and at night, beer gardens fill with lively debate (you can bet some table in Kassel is fiercely discussing whether Documenta’s conceptual art is genius or nonsense – both views find passionate defenders!). If you’re lucky, a friendly local might recount memories of past Documentas: e.g., seeing Ai Weiwei’s work in 2007 or the shock of early abstract art in the 50s. Kassel might lack the tourist polish of Berlin or Munich, but during Documenta, it radiates a unique charm where the whole city becomes an art venue and everyone is invited.
Must-See: Given Documenta’s sprawl, highlights will vary by edition, but some consistent bets: The Fridericianum Museum – as the central venue since the first Documenta, it often houses key parts of the main exhibition, like group shows capturing the theme. It’s kind of tradition to start there. Another must is any large-scale public artworks: e.g., in 2012, an entire undulating garden “Brain” by Song Dong was installed in the park, or in 2017, the aforementioned Parthenon of Books by Marta Minujín on Friedrichsplatz – such grand gestures are Documenta hallmarks. Definitely find the Beuys’ 7000 Oaks markers – it’s moving to see how an art action from 40 years ago now literally shapes the city’s landscape (each oak has a basalt stone next to it; there are maps to find them, but part of the fun is spotting them organically). If Documenta Halle is used, it usually contains large installations or media art – don’t skip it. The Neue Neue Galerie (in the past a post office or other repurposed spot) often has edgier or emerging work. Also, check out whatever is at the Ottoneum – in 2012 it hosted a beautiful natural/specimen-themed art display. One of my memorable spots: in 2017, the Grimm Brothers Museum had a sound installation; mixing contemporary art in that old half-timber house of fairy tale fame was magical. Also, be sure to see if Documenta has any tie-in at Wilhelmshöhe (the hillside park with the Hercules statue) – sometimes they do site-specific pieces there, and even if not, it’s UNESCO World Heritage and offers amazing city views, plus a romantic waterfall show certain days. Documenta may also have evening programs: films at the Bali cinema or performances at a theatre. These often are gems to witness – e.g., past Documentas had dance by famed choreographers like Pina Bausch. Additionally, since Documenta is about ideas as much as art, try to attend a guided tour or artist talk. Hearing from a knowledgeable guide about the context of works can greatly enrich the experience (Documenta can be dense or perplexing without context, which is part of its challenge). For a quirky excursion, ride the pebble-grey tram that might itself be an art piece – in 2007 an artist turned a tram into a moving sound installation, for example. There’s usually at least one “hidden treasure” venue in a suburb or off-site – if you see it on the map, make the trek; it could be an abandoned warehouse filled with video art or a garden with a secret sculpture, often those more offbeat locations yield memorable experiences.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Eat & Drink: Kassel’s culinary scene is hearty German with some international infusion, sustained by residents and university folks. During Documenta, lots of temporary food stalls might pop up near venues – expect bratwurst stands and beer carts aplenty around Friedrichsplatz. A typical Documenta lunch could be a Thüringen rostbratwurst in a bun with mustard, eaten on the go between exhibits. For local flavour, try Kassel’s regional speciality Ahle Wurscht – a type of air-dried pork sausage (look in traditional restaurants or local butcher shops). Another Hessian treat is Handkäs mit Musik – a strong sour milk cheese marinated with onions (the “music” refers to the digestive effect of the onions, humorously). Cafés in the city centre (like Café Nenninger) serve wonderful Kuchen (cakes); a midday coffee & cake break is a very German thing to do between museum visits. If the weather’s nice, grab a seat at an outdoor table on Königsstraße or Friedrichsplatz and people-watch. For an actual meal, Kassel has many Bavarian beer halls (despite being in Hesse) – e.g., Paulaner Wirtshaus – where you can get schnitzel, pretzels, and litre beers. There are also some quaint taverns in the older part of town, serving Rouladen (rolled beef with pickles) or Sauerbraten (marinated roast). Students frequent cheap and cheerful döner kebab joints – one near the university or train station can fix you a great kebab or falafel. Kassel also has a small Chinatown street (西安路) – if you crave Asian, there are some Szechuan eateries and bubble tea spots thanks to an influx of Chinese students. For something quick and local, look for Reibekuchen (potato pancakes) often sold at markets, served with apple sauce – very satisfying. Since many visitors are international, Kassel’s restaurants do get cosmopolitan surges: you’ll find Italian trattorias or Vietnamese pho places fairly busy. Beer lovers: Hesse’s local brew is Krombacher or Hasseröder, widely available. There’s also Hessischer Apfelwein (apple cider) but that’s more of a Frankfurt thing – still, some pubs may stock it; it’s tart and cidery, usually in a glass with a diamond pattern. In the evenings, aside from pubs, Kassel has some wine bars and cocktail bars around Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse in the Vorderer Westen district (west of downtown). You might bump into art crowds at Weinberg-Kirche terrace – a viewpoint that sometimes hosts events or just informal hangouts. If you seek vegetarian/vegan (common among the art set), Mädchenklub cafe or Café Desasta have options. Also, one cannot ignore the draw of a currywurst (sausage with curry ketchup) from a Schnellimbiss (fast-food stand) by the station after a long day – consider it fuel for a night of processing all the art. And treat yourself at least once to gelato or an Italian Eisbecher (ice cream sundae) at a café – Germans love Italian ice cream, and Kassel has a couple of classic Eiscafes that might have creative Documenta-inspired flavours during the show.
Stay: Kassel’s accommodations range from simple pensions to a few high-end hotels. During Documenta, book early – everything fills up with artists, curators, collectors, and tourists. The grandest hotel is Schlosshotel Bad Wilhelmshöhe, near the hilltop palace – a lovely setting amid parkland, but a bit removed (they often host VIP events though). More central is Hotel Hessenland or Stadthotel Kassel, mid-range places that often partner with Documenta (one year the lobby itself had an art installation). Golden Tulip Kassel or Mercure Hotel are reliable chains near the city centre. For a unique vibe, some folks stay at Hotel Sandershaus, which is part hostel, part cultural centre in a refurbished building – it’s slightly outside centre but artsy. Given the academic angle, Kassel University sometimes opens dorms for rent or people do homestays. If hotels are full, consider Airbnb or private rooms; Kassel residents often list spare rooms. The areas of Vorderer Westen or near Documenta venues (Mitte) are convenient. Kassel is safe and relatively small, so location isn’t critical – there’s good public transit – but being able to walk to main sites is a plus to avoid waiting for taxis after big events. Pricewise, Documenta inflates rates, but it’s still cheaper than big city rates. Many art professionals also do day trips from bigger cities (Frankfurt is 1.5 hours by train). But staying in Kassel immerses you fully – plus you can do evening strolls to see illuminated installations or just enjoy the nightly summer breeze. There’s something enchanting about walking through an empty Friedrichsplatz at midnight, the art that was bustling in the daytime now quiet under floodlights, and you realize you share this moment only with maybe a few locals and that one giant sculpture looming in the dark – it’s a special kind of travel experience. If you can swing it, also plan a stop in Weimar or Wartburg or other nearby cultural sites in central Germany either en route or after Documenta, as decompressing in a classical music concert in Leipzig or at Grimm’s fairy tale sites could nicely complement the ultra-contemporary feast you’ve had.
Explore: Kassel’s top tourist site outside Documenta is Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe – do not miss it. It’s a hillside park with a huge Hercules statue up top (emblem of Kassel) and waterworks that cascade down the hill on summer Sundays. The Schloss Wilhelmshöhe there has an art gallery with Old Masters (including Rembrandt’s “The Blinding of Samson” etc.) – a nice contrast to Documenta’s ultra-modern works. The park’s landscape, with faux ruins and bridges, is a charming wander. In town, the Grimmwelt Museum is a modern, interactive homage to the Brothers Grimm. Karlsaue Park (the one by the Orangerie) is wonderful for a picnic or lie-down after museum fatigue – locals sunbathe or play frisbee here, often around scattered art pieces. If you want to go further, Kassel is roughly in the middle of Germany, so day trips by train to places like Marburg (a storybook university town with a castle), Göttingen (historic university city), or Eisenach (Bach’s birthplace and Wartburg castle of Luther fame) are doable. During Documenta, Kassel often hosts satellite shows to check if any alternative art show or Gallerienhaus is happening (sometimes dissident artists or smaller galleries put on concurrent shows dubbed like “Anti-Documenta” as a fringe). These can be fun and less formal. Also, see if any concerts or theatres are on; Kassel has a State Theater (Staatstheater) – a break with some German opera or play could be interesting culturally. At night, aside from bar socials, Documenta organises some parties or late-night openings – keep an ear to the ground, as dancing with artists in a repurposed factory or attending a DJ set in a museum hall can happen. If you have a car or time, Dörnberg Nature Park outside Kassel offers hikes among unusual basalt rock formations (the “Witch’s Cauldron”) – a nice nature break. For a kitschy but fun moment, you can visit the Documenta archive or Documenta souvenir shop – they often sell quirky items like tote bags with past logos, books, and posters. Getting a catalogue of the current Documenta is a heavy but worthy keepsake (they often become collector’s items in themselves). Finally, embrace the pace: Kassel’s not about rushed bucket-listing, it’s about intellectual and leisurely absorption. In the spirit of Documenta (which means a document or lesson), take time to reflect, perhaps journal in the park about what you saw. You’ll likely leave Kassel not only with new favourite artists or art pieces but also with a sense of participating in a grand conversation that spans art, history, politics, and humanity’s future – a heady souvenir that no trinket can match. Documenta lives up to its billing: “Every five years from 1955 on, Documenta showcases international avant-garde art and has established itself as the most important art show in the world” – experiencing it is not just a trip but a pilgrimage for the contemporary art enthusiasts, one that deeply rewards those willing to engage with its often challenging, always thought-provoking content.
ART AROUND THE WORLD: A GRAND TOUR OF BIENNIALS AND FAIRS
Biennials and art fairs are more than mere market moments. For the culturally curious, they are high-speed entry points into a city’s artistic psyche. They offer encounters that might never be repeated — a performance in a decaying warehouse, a film screening on a floating pavilion, a conversation with an artist over strong coffee.
This isn’t just about art. It’s about perspective, immersion and movement. It’s a passport, yes — but also a way of seeing.
Pack light, carry a notebook, and don’t forget your curiosity.
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