Why Israel is worth visiting? We have wine, view and a fascinating culture. Have fun.
When my friend Sarah suggested we’d head out of Jerusalem, I admit I was hesitant. Like many others I followed the accessible path of Two Cities One Break, and boy did it deliver!
When I wasn’t uncovering history beneath my feet in the narrow Jerusalem streets, I was tasting the vast variety of food in the Mahane Yehuda market, stocking up on the freshest ground of colourful spices and just soaking in the view of a typical Middle Eastern market, with haggling street vendors, juicy fruits at every corner and an array of local bars right in the epicentre of the market.
On the days I wasn’t feeling like visiting churches, mosques and synagogues, I’d take the bullet train, just a 30-minute ride, to Tel Aviv and hit the beaches, shop at Tel Aviv’s own 5th Avenue at the Kikar HaMedina and enjoy the bustling night life, whether those be clubs for the music, bars for the drinks or the picturesque coffee shops for the, well, coffee. It’s the Middle East after all!
So, should I break down my cycle and head elsewhere?
Sarah convinced me this is an experience that’s off the beaten path, and being the wanderlust sucker that I am, I agreed. We got into her car, buckled up and I started dreaming of that “Little Tuscany” she told me about, a place that would surely be located in a remote area, surrounded by green hills and a blue sky, when suddenly we came to a stop. Mere 20 minutes out of Jerusalem and we have already reached our first destination of the day!
Za Pziza Waze: Iza Pziza Tal Shahar
Getting out of the car my nose caught up on the aroma of fresh cut grass and, wait… are those goats? Sarah ushered me to follow her and we’ve entered a small boutique shop with the cutest logo of a goat on it.
The owner, Alon Zaban, greeted us warmly and showed around the farm.
“Our family has always cared about agriculture and farm animals. My parents started off with just a handful of chickens, we proceeded to grow olive trees, make olive oil and then my brother decided to bring in the goats! I was living in Finland with my wife at the time, but living on the farm and raising animals is a calling. So, we packed everything we had and returned to Israel.”
When Alon was telling the story of his family, I couldn’t help but notice that this dairy farm is in fact this man’s life’s work. Inching closer to the goats and chicken, Alon told us that unlike the majority of the dairy farms, in Iza Pziza they let the baby goats (kids in the professional lingo), stay with their mothers until they’re done breastfeeding, and so many of their vegetarian visitors praise the farm for the humane treatment of the animals.
I was pretty impressed as it was and was dying to taste and buy some fresh produce when Sarah asked me if I wanted to make cheese with my own two hands.
Do I know how to make cheese? No. Do I want to try? Sure!
For the next two hours, Sarah and I joined, laughed and took pictures with a group of complete strangers and tested our capability as amateur cheesemakers. Under Alon’s expert guidance we’ve started by milking goats and proceeded to learn the tips to distinguishing fresh cheeses, the tricks to create a dairy farm quality cheese in our own kitchens and the right ways to age cheese. So, what’s the recipe for cheese? Well it starts with one liter of fresh goat milk…After hanging our cheese to dry out we headed to the boutique store for some tasting. An hour later we left Iza Pziza with our own packed handmade cheese, half a dozen products you can only purchase in house and Alon’s words spinning in our head “We all have that dream to return to something simpler, be closer to earth, return to life without traffic jams, bluer skies and serenity you can only find in this kind of place.”
EZ Raider Waze: EZ Raider – Valley of Elah
The drive to our next location took us around 20 minutes. Sarah parked next to a big garage with a huge “EZ Raider” sign on top, but before I had the chance to ask anything, a smiling middle-aged man walked towards us and greeted us warmly. Menashe Yitzhak, who insisted we call him Ukki, is the co-owner of the EZ Raider attraction in the Valley of Elah. While we were trying on helmets and filling out our participation forms, Ukki told us that apart from managing the tourism of the region, he is also a born and raised farmer.
Sarah was slightly more adventurous than me, and joined the group of guys who were riding the EZ Raider, an exciting ride that included helmets, breaks and a lot of weight shifting. I decided to opt for the luxury option and took the golf cart that had just as much power, a little less excitement but a roof to shield us from the sun.
On our way, Ukki explained about the agriculture in the region and the importance of local produce, and to prove his point invited us for a pit stop at his greenhouse and a taste of his special tomatoes that are only sprayed with water, soap and love.
There, while we were encompassed by the earthy aroma of fresh vegetables, he also told us about a new sort of anemones he managed to develop. And what a feeling it was standing in front of this humble man, smiling sheepishly at us and downplaying the fact he created a new breed of anemones! We weren’t done admiring the produce and soaking ourselves in the countryside atmosphere but it was time to continue the journey.
We hopped on our vehicles and drove to Britannia Park, a forest and recreation area planted by the Jewish National Fund over 70 years ago. Acres of acres of greenery and mountains accompanied by the song of birds, and after a 10-minute ride we found ourselves in the middle of the valley in the center of a secluded vineyard only “insiders” could show you how to get to. There I’ve tasted the sweetest grapes I’ve ever had!
Walking down the vineyards, plucking grapes and enjoying the sun and the view over the valley, I realized I’m starving and after heading back to our car I asked Sarah to take us to a place that would have the magical trifecta of food, wine and views!
Bazak Winery Waze: Bazak Vered Street, Karmei Yosef
20 minutes later Sarah and I were sitting on the balcony, looking over the vineyards and basking in the afternoon sun. Amos, the youngest son of the Bazak family and handler of the winery served us our cheese platter and wine, and sat down for a chat and a tale.
So how did the story begin?
Grandfather Bazak owned a cowshed and Amos’ father decided to carry on his wayward and study at the faculty of Agriculture, that’s where he met Amos’ mother and a new family was formed. The new generation, Amos and his 6 brothers decided to explore a new path and make wine. Over the years, Bazak Winery mixed, tested and tasted wine from a variety of grapes and explored cooperation with nearly by wineries and vineyards. And that’s what this business is all about for Amos, not only creating wine, but developing the countryside through the symbiosis of wineries, farms, dairies and apiaries in the region.
When Amos poured us Bazak’s Sauvignon Blanc, even I, NOT a wine connoisseur, but a Team Red all the way, couldn’t help but notice how smooth it was. A perfect wine for a summer afternoon. A perfect wine for any day actually!
Sipping on the silky-smooth wine paired with a selection of local cheeses and fresh veggies, with a view overlooking the sea of green and vineyards below us made me think that Tuscany really is here. On our way to Jerusalem, watching the evening sun setting down, I was thinking about what Amos said, that the beating heart of the place are the people who visit the winery, taste, experience and return home with renewed energies and stories to tell.
The people in Mateh Yehuda really do love their land and open their arms wide to welcome anyone who visits them. So why visit Israel’s “Little Tuscany”? For the proximity, the variety and the freshness, and there is no better time than now to leave the gray urban streets of the cities, meet Amos, Ukki, Alon and many others, listen to their stories and enjoy the selection of produce Israel has to offer.
Olya L
