LUCCA: THE CITY OF MANY CHURCHES AND THE OCCASIONAL POP STAR!
When I arrived in Lucca, the cab couldn’t even get to the entrance of my hotel- the Grand Universe Lucca. Instead, I felt like a celebrity as I was escorted through the roped-off barrier to the glamorous glass entrance and welcomed like royalty.
Alas, the red carpet wasn’t for me, but coincided with the month-long music concert that takes over the city, and conveniently, my home for the weekend took pride of place with its terrace and front bedrooms having front row access to the ambience.
An impressive Palazzo dating back the 17th century, there are still many original features, including an impressive wine cellar. However recent renovations have added 55 luxe bedrooms and nine suites offering the best black out curtains known to man! Whilst the exclusive champagne bar on the roof is arguably the most romantic place in town.
And that is saying something, as Lucca reeks of romance. Not only is it the birthplace of Puccini; the hotel even offers a quirky signature experience where guests can take home a personal prelude designed in exclusive session with a local music composer in the hotel’s Symphony Lounge.
Outside of the hotel, the cobbled streets are filled with friendly locals cycling around with their groceries, or chatting animatedly on corners; whilst serious looking men are pondering newspapers on the piazzas. However, on closer inspection, they are ruminating over a crossword and have an adorable pooch at their feet.
Unfortunately I didn’t catch a glimpse of Justin Beiber or Noel Gallagher who were both performing this summer, but I did get to soak up the buzzy summer vibe which transformed the mediaeval city into a pilgrimage for all genres of music lovers. Not only a hub for musos, Lucca has also been hosting the International Festival of Comics and Games since 1996 and you are likely to bump into incarnations of Batman or Wonder Woman as you explore the famous walls.
You can’t dispute the city does have magnificent city walls – which wouldn’t look out of place in a Disney film. Now well groomed and filled with greenery, Napoleon’s sister is often credited as bringing her green fingers to the city when he declared her as the “Queen of Etruria’ in 1815. She planted grass on the banks, and designed broad, tree-lined pathways along the top of the rampart walls for them so they could be enjoyed by all.
Much of the ancient city has been preserved and ruins of the ancient Roman amphitheatre are still evident, with the lively plaza of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro at its centrepoint. The square can be reached via four gateways, and although it is filled with cafes and terraces now, it used to host gladiator battles, watched by rapturous, blood-thirsty onlookers, and you can even take a selfie beside a giant bronze sculpture of a human head.
Other interesting experiences involve climbing the Guinigi Tower, which dates back to 1384 when it was built by Lucca’s ruling family, the Guinigis. It’s worth the trek up the 230 stairs as you get a birds’ eye view of the city’s panorama and Tower-Houses, which give Lucca such a distinct profile. Allegedly locals believed “The higher my tower, the greater my power” and some houses are much mightier than others- whilst an influential family falling on hard times was also likely to find his tower decapitated with a fall in his fortunes! The roof also boasts the city’s rooftop garden. Noone knows exactly how old this is, but it dates back to at least 1600 when it appears in a contemporary drawing of the city.
Whether you are a fan of old churches or not, you won’t be able to escape their monopoly in Lucca’s centre- after all Lucca is known as the City of 100 Churches! The main cathedral is home to the famous sculpture of the Volto Santo (Holy Countenance) and the beautiful tomb of Ilaria del Carretto- sculpted by Jacopo della Quercia. My advice is to get a tour guide for a morning and they will wizz you round all the interesting sites.
If you prefer more modern culture, the impressive Lucca Centre of Contemporary Art (L.C.C.A.) is located inside Palazzo Boccella; this large museum is divided over five floors and showcases a permanent collection as well as international exhibits.
No visit to Italy is complete without wine tasting and eating pasta! You won’t even have to leave the walls. Vinni Liquori Vanni is an unassuming storefront on a shopping street, but once inside the dark wood floor-to-ceiling shelves are filled with wine bottles from every region in Italy, whilst downstairs there is a cavernous cellar housing a jaw-dropping assortment of wines of different vintages. Whereas great pasta is available everywhere!
If you’re looking for a city break with a difference, where you can experience great food, festivals, your first opera, modern art, superheroes or Robbie Williams, Lucca has something to offer you.
Sara Darling
Fused stayed as a guest of Grand Universe Lucca, an Autograph Collection Hotel.
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