Look beyond Lisbon and you’ll discover Cascais is fit for a king!
Lisbon is indisputably cosmopolitan and has the thrills of an urban city, but sometimes you want something different from a getaway. So why not head a tad further and choose Cascais as your final destination? In just 30 minutes from Lisbon airport, you’ll have salty hair and sandy toes!
With its inspiring views of the Atlantic ocean, the municipality of Cascais, which reaches from Monte Estoril to the fairy-tale palaces and age-old castles in Sintra, has been popular with those in the know for centuries.
Back in the early 1800s Cascais was a modest fishing port, where King Luís I had a summer home. However, he and his family enjoyed the fresh sea air so much that Luis decided to relocate to the town permanently, and hosted numerous high profile visitors including King Juan Carlos I of Spain, and King Umberto II of Italy and exiled Cuban president Fulgencio Batista, After the monarchy was overthrown in 1910, the palace was neglected, but since 2011, it has been completely restored, and visitors can enjoy a fascinating insight to the monarch’s taste.
The launch of the Sud Express route from Paris in 1887 kickstarted the Golden Age of tourism to the area, and It became a hot spot for government ministers, writers (including Ian Fleming), bankers and Royalty on the run, who flocked to experience the health benefits of sun and sea air. The demand accelerated for seaside property, and this started the rise in Cascais’ summer bungalows which is also referred to as “holiday architecture” which can still be seen today.
Nowadays the small but perfectly formed town centre has retained its charm, and has plenty of shops and cafes to meander so you can easily spend an afternoon picking up souvenirs or tasting pastries. There is a large market every Wednesday morning, and along with fresh produce, you can browse everything from clothes to kitchenware. But be sure to wear practical footwear as the windy roads are paved with traditional Portuguese polished “calçada” and these shiny tiles can get slippery! But comfy shoes are a good option for a stroll along the picture-perfect seawall pedestrian path, which is moments from the centre. This “paredão” connects Conceição beach in Cascais to São João do Estoril along the ocean and is a delightful way to soak up the views.
Cascais is the ultimate laid back destination where you can enjoy a sea dip in the morning and trek in the mountains in the afternoon, punctuated by a lunch of freshly caught fish and a crisp rose at a seaside taverna. But if you’re craving some culture, there are plenty of options for that too. The stately home of Casa da Guia was built by aristocrat D José Saldanha Oliveira in 1895, and was the home of his daughter Maria Teresa, who resided there until 1973. Nowadays, the stunning palace and the gardens are open to the public and it is home to several upmarket stores and restaurants.
Whilst the Parque Marechal Carmona is a lovely shady place to have a rest. Situated in the grounds of two aristocratic properties: Palácio Condes de Castro Guimarães and land belonging to the Viscount of Gandarinha, the beautifully manicured gardens lead to the Condes de Castro Guimarães museum- a whimsical Revivalist palace with imposing stone tower which was completed in 1900. Inside you can see paintings, Indo-Portuguese furniture, jewellery, prehistoric archaeology from local caves and oriental porcelain, and a vast collection of rare books which will charm any bibliophile.
The town’s Museum Quarter has conveniently designed all the sights within walking distance, so it’s easy to get your culture fix. Start with the Town Museum which is filled with the history of Cascais, then move on to Sommer House where Ribeira Beach temporary exhibitions are held. Cross the garden in front of the park and enter the Rei D. Carlos ‘Museum of the Sea’ where you can immerse yourself in interactive exhibitions of the local fishing community and you’ll see contemporary street art by Vhils and Pedro Pires, and “One Strange Rock” by Bordalo II, which was commissioned by National Geographic. Last but not least, Paula Rego House of Stories is unmistakable for its red pyramid-like towers and is dedicated to the Cascais born artist. Designed by architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, it hosts ever-changing exhibitions of Rego’s paintings and graphic art.
More modern art can be viewed in the Torre district which is a suburb, built in the sixties to relocate fishermen and their families. Today it has more than 30 buildings, and some have been gentrified with murals by local artists such as Add Fuel (pictured below), who designed an impressive image of a fishwife with a blue and white tile effect which dominates the side of tenement block.
If you visit for longer than a day trip (and it’s well worth it, believe me) you won’t be able to avoid the crashing waves of the Atlantic and stunning white sands of the Med. The winds of Guincho attracts surfers and windsurfers, but there are plenty of relaxing bathing spots too.
The commuter train from Lisbon stops at Estoril which is the most populated beach, but head further afield and you will get more bang for your buck. Tamariz has only light waves and is further protected by a pier on its eastern fringe, or you can take a dip in a man made lido if you don’t fancy dealing with the currents.
With the craggy coastline comes some amazing photo opportunities, and the Boca Do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth) is a popular viewing point. This rocky outcrop juts into the sea and booms and sprays like the ‘mouth of hell’ when big waves hit. if you’re a fan of windy thrills, take a trip to Rocca Cape, for a windswept pic in the most western point in Europe.
Nicknamed the Portuguese Riviera, this animated port town has something for everyone- with relaxed petiscos (tapas), first class accommodation and a secondhand bookshop run by the Portuguese association for Down’s Syndrome. You can also learn to surf, or spend a day with a beekeeper! With options for boat trips from the harbour, day trips to the fairytale Sintra and glamping in the peaceful Quinta do Pisão farmlands in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, it’s no wonder that when you’ve visited beautiful Cascais once, you will be back- it’s a destination that keeps on giving.
Words: Sara Darling
Fused flew to Cascais with TAP Air
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