48 HOURS IN ICELAND
I’ve just eaten a smoked lamb and bean sandwich oozing with Mayo when our driver takes our ‘Super Truck’ off-road and down a vertical hill to “show us what the vehicle can do.” The stomach flips as the truck tips forward and rumbles down. We can no longer see the scenery outside the window as the mist has set in. This is like no July I’ve ever known. Welcome to Iceland.
For such a small place Iceland certainly holds its own. This Island country (it is the size of England), with its tiny population (just 320,000 inhabitants), brought the aviation world to an abrupt halt four years ago when the Eyjafjallajökull volcano erupted spewing ash throughout the atmosphere; but I think we can forgive them now after all they are showing the rest of the globe how to be fully sustainable; as the forerunner in the world of Green Energy. Plus the country came first in the Global Peace Index as the most peaceful place to live in the world.
We’d arrived at night having boarded the inaugural twilight flight from Birmingham to Keflavik Airport, Reykjavik. The flight lands in daylight – although it’s almost midnight. It makes for a confused brain. We’ve got just 48 hours to see the sites of Iceland and our jam-packed first day Golden Circle Tour certainly sets the scene of what is on offer in this most diverse of landscapes.
We’re passing through rocky, and what looks like uninhabitable terrain. The hundreds of Icelandic pure breed horses have long disappeared as have the grassy fields that feed them. This has been replaced with ice patches, compacted snow and a driving rain. It looks impassable; but it’s not an issue for our driver and his jeep. We’re headed to the Langjökull glacier (the second largest ice cap in Iceland at 953 km2) and our mode of transport for the next 45 minutes will be switched to a snowmobile. We’re given snow suits and protective boots, gloves, snoods and a helmet. The weather had felt relatively mild over breakfast but it has taken a turn: It’s pretty cold out there.
Our towering Mountaineer host Anders gives us quick instructions on how to use our new mode of transport. It’s really simple. We ride two to a vehicle and off we go in a convoy traversing lumpy snow, bumpy ice and melting slush.
It all results in an exhilarating, if not biting cold and utterly soaking ride. With a pair of boots full of water and a wet bum we’re back in our jeep to visit the stunning Golden waterfall, Gullfoss. We’re given the opportunity to warm up in the restaurant there with some traditional lamb and vegetable soup – just the thing to heat up the inner core.
A few kilometers away and we arrive at the geothermal area around the hot spring geysirs. These sulphur smelling pockets of boiling water send steam into the air. Only one of them is active and we gather around to wait for it to blow. We don’t have to wait long as it treats us with a fine display and, rather unfortunately, a warm shower. We’re already wet but now we’re soaked – somehow it no longer seems to matter.
For our second day we get to take a quick walk around the capital, Reykjavik. Our hotel is on the main shopping street, Laugavegur and is as close to the action as we can get. Surrounded by Independent design shops, fashion stores, bars and restaurants there’s plenty to spend your money on.
A short walk takes you to the stunning Lutheran church of Hallgrimskirkja. Within the centre of Reykjavik it stands out as one of its tallest buildings. Inside the church the design is perfectly functional and minimal and the 75m bell tower is certainly worth the visit for the views across the city. Luckily there’s a lift to get you up there.
Apparently almost every tourist to Iceland visits the famous Blue Lagoon. Situated on a lava field it’s on the way to/from the airport and acts as an ideal stop-off before boarding your flight – which is also our intention. We get there the same time as a coach arrives which results in slightly fraught and manic scenes in the luggage drop off area (there’s a space for visitors to leave their suitcases). Once we’ve done that it is on to the reception to pick up towels, robes and locker keys. Inside the changing rooms it’s as busy; not quite the relaxing start of a spa experience I’d envisaged. The rain is blustering down so a few brisk steps are called for to get in to the water.
Once in the lagoon the rewards are plentiful. While it’s busy there is more than enough space to move around this hot power plant overflow of strange blue mineral water. Weaving our way through the other tourists (some with iPads in their hands!) we get to the bar in the centre for a luxury glass of wine. There are buckets of cleansing mud to slather around your body and you can also buy a ‘Volcano Scrub’ and cover your face with its natural minerals. Every now and again we’re blasted with rain but the water is so warming it doesn’t really matter what is coming down from the skies.
The weather has been pretty rotten for our 48 hours in Iceland so it doesn’t come to much of a surprise that our flight is cancelled (the plane can’t be flown in due to the fierce wind and rain). But who cares? We’ve got an extra night out in Reykjavik and we can’t get enough of it!
Where to stay
The brand new Alda Hotel is in the centre of Reykjavik and close to bars and shops. Its subtle and stylish design comes fully fitted with chic Scandi-style furnishings, locally-produced products and friendly staff.
Alda Hotel
Where to eat
Harpa: If you fancy a concert while you are in the city you can checked out the stunning architecture and schedule at Harpa. Acting as a concert hall, Opera House and arts space it also has a beautiful restaurant, Kolabrautin, with views of the harbour and delicious food offerings.
The Blue Lagoon LAVA Restaurant: After a soak and a swim around the lagoon you can check out the restaurant with its rock face walls and views of the steamy water.
Kex Hostel
Where to drink
Kex Hostel has an unassuming and almost missable facade but inside is a warm, comfy fashionista hangout where you can grab a cocktail, local beer and a steak.
For DJ’s and live bands head to Kaffibarinn. Blur’s Damon Alban is rumoured to own (or at least to have a stake) the bar which is full of Reykjavik hipsters, naturally.
Kaffibarinn
Other info
Our Golden Circle Super Jeep Tour & Snowmobiling was with the Mountaineers of Iceland.
Dress for all weather occasions – temperatures in the Summer don’t reach too high so warm and waterproof clothing and footwear is a must.
Check out our ICELAND PINTEREST board for addresses and further info / images.
