48 HOURS IN BOSTON
The so-called ‘walking city’ is filled with beautiful architecture and, unlike many of its neighbour states, steeped in history. The home of top Ivy League University; Harvard, it is a perfect 48-hour city to take in sights, shopping and coffee drinking.
It appears to be home to the largest amount of Starbucks and Dunking Donuts per capita of anywhere we have ever seen. Despite attempts to avoid either it is difficult in the central district but thanks to what appears to be a canny government policy to keep the heritage of the city’s buildings intact and looking fine at least these corporate Goliaths house their establishments in great looking buildings.
Despite the residents’ obvious love for the coffee giant whiling away hours walking through the districts will reward you with Wonderful views and plenty of opportunities to reach for your camera and history books.
Copley House
Where to stay
Copley House
It’s always a treat to be able to see inside the iconic buildings of a neighbourhood and nothing quite says Boston like the 3/4 storey brownstones that make up its suburbs. Copley House is made up of several such buildings giving visitors an insiders view of true Bostonian living.
Luckily the climb up the front stairwell that makes up the entrance to many of the houses isn’t too steep to drag your luggage up but with no lifts inside if you’re on a higher floor you might want to rethink the size of your bag.
The accommodation is made up of studio apartments. Ours was a medium studio with a roomy living space and kitchenette alongside a table set within the bay windows. The separate bedroom has just enough for a double bed and built in wardrobe but with the extra living space it really doesn’t need to be any bigger. Modestly decorated in mutual tones it’s both homely and neat and ideal for a more independent visit.
Set in the neighbourhood of Back Bay, down a quiet street (and opposite a conveniently placed 7 Eleven), you don’t have to walk too far for shopping, sightseeing or eating.
As a base we walked to the exclusive area of Beacon Hill (about 20 mins) to check out the antiques shops, popped to the harbour to visit the penguins at the Aquarium (about 25 mins) and walked through the pretty snow covered public park (about 15 mins). Literally over the road is the Prudential Building where you can visit the sky walk for views over the city. It is also a shopping centre and a walk straight the way through will lead you direct on to Boylston Street and the parallel running shopping Mecca of Newbury Street.
Beat Hotel
For a unique night out
Beat Hotel
Just off Harvard Square and hidden amongst the shops an unassuming staircase leads down in to the expansive subterranean venue for Beat Hotel. This is not actually a hotel at all but a restaurant and live music venue that splits into two bar areas, a large restaurant, dance floor and all-round vibrant hang out. Enough for over 500 people to spend the night.
Although only open for five months it has a feel of a space that is well established – due partly to its kooky Tangiers-esque decor, aged and reclaimed warehouse flooring, century old wooden furnishings and Amish handmade tables.
The menu isn’t overwhelming but instead creative, varied and tantalising. We chose a starter of deep fried calamari and vegetables alongside a dish of Mussels in a garlic, tomato sauce. Both delicious, light and incredibly tasty.
For our mains we chose the Duck breast with a sweet potato bubble & squeak and cream spinach with a cherry sauce. Cooked medium rare the combinations were subtle but the sweetness of the cherry sauce just gave it the fruity lift it needed. We also gave the Brazilian fish stew a try; filled with large chunks of white flaky cod and king prawns it was served with a portion of rice (which it didn’t really need) it was delicately spiced without being hot on the tongue.
After the mains we couldn’t manage a dessert from the daily changing choices but we did see others diners opt for the impressively proportioned red velvet and coconut cake.
There is live music every night of the week. For a Monday evening we were treated to a set by the ABs who played jazz funk classics – the perfect way to end a meal and relax with one of the venues great house cocktails.
Where to drink
Bukowski Tavern
A lively hang out that’s an ideal place for tasting great local and regionally brewed craft beers. You are handed a menu as soon as you enter with a fine choice of draft and bottled beers. But be warned there are some seriously strong percentage beers on offer here.
American style cuisine is served up in baskets and for a bar snack you can’t go too wrong with the Tater Tots with a side of Chipotle mayo to soak up the effects of the ale.
For a taste of history
Union Oyster House
This Boston institution has stood as the oldest continuously established serving restaurant in the States and was a favourite of John F. Kennedy. In fact he used to ask for his favourite booth each time he was dining and as a result the restaurant dedicated the booth to him. Now the seats on booth 18 are a very special place where diners often pop around to take a peek (which is slightly disconcerting when you are sat eating your clam chowder).
You can see why it would have been a favourite of JFK with dark lighting and a secluded hidden feel it is a private place to relax and enjoy their freshly shucked oysters.
We passed over the steak dishes in favour for the fish specialities and thanks to its positioning near the harbour this felt like the right thing to do. The choices were sauce rich; the Seafood Newburg contained lobster meat, shrimp and scallops all covered in a creamy sherry sauce. The Lobster Ravioli was served in a Lobster cream sauce with sherry and fresh herbs – almost tipping us over the edge. Everything here tastes amazing but the portions are so big you’ll wish you shared – just don’t fill up on the warmly served corn bread.
Enjoyment comes from watching hapless tourists tucking into lobster and getting very messy while waiting for your mains.
Back Bay – great for shopping
The central district is easy to navigate and offers a fine amount of shopping and site seeing on its doorstep. The Prudential Tower houses a mall and just behind that Boylston and Newbury Street has it’s fill of stores. While the aforementioned is more high street names Newbury caters for slightly more designer tastes with
Beacon Hill – great for wandering
Beautiful houses and gas lit streets are a treat to the eyes while the independent stores are an assault on the purse strings. Antique stores line the streets. The area is also home to one of TV’s most famous bars; Cheers. However unlike its namesake the bar is totally unlike the one on the series (it’s tiny) and caters for tourists who are dropped off to visit by the tram style tour bus drivers.
Get the Pass
We recommend getting the City Pass which allows entry in to museums, galleries and attractions including the beautiful New England Aquarium. It also acts as a queue buster to popular attractions and if you use it well you’ll save money on entry too.
