12 THINGS TO DO IN CUBA
As Havana reaches its half millennia in 2019 Fused headed to Cuba to visit the capital and to take a trip off the beaten track with a drive to the historic revolutionary centre of the Island and its neighbouring towns.
Here’s our top 12 things to do when heading to the Island.
1. Get lost in Habana Vejo
There’s so much to take in when you hit the Cuban capital of Havana. Split into distinctive districts Havana oozes passion, and the feel on the street is vibrant. During this anniversary year concerts, performances and parades will bring even more life to the city – if that is possible.
Nothing beats a stroll around a new city without google maps to correct you. Grab a TukTuk from your hotel and get dropped at the docks. From there you can quench your thirst with a Cerveza – if you want something a little different from the local Cristal, or slightly stronger Bucanero, you can check out Cerveceria Antiguo Almacen de la Madera y El Tabaco; a vast old lumber and tobacco warehouse turned brewpub where they serve up a pretty decent blonde ale.
Just over the road, you can support the enterprising Habaneros (who capture the hordes of tourists flocking off the cruise ships), selling art, leather goods and trinkets at the artisan market. It’s a great place to start your exploration of the city.
Weave your way through the back streets, past the tourist squares of freshly painted buildings while dodging the boys playing football with their makeshift goalposts and the teenagers competing over their heated game of basketball. It’s all there played right out in the street before you – with no stopping. Just take your chances to slip by while you can.
Doors are open, small portable-sized TV’s are on, washing hangs where it can and as uninvited guests, we become voyeurs of this unusual socialist lifestyle. For a couple of Cuban CUCs (or US dollars) you are welcomed in to explore some of the homes by those who understand a tourist’s strange fascination with what it’s like to live in one of the most iconic cities in the World.
2. Get a digital album of Insta ready images
It’s an architecture lover’s dream; from neoclassical splendour to Spanish Renaissance, French colonialism to concrete communist brutalism. The striking buildings of Habana Vejo come in all sizes, colours, shapes and stages of disrepair. The pastel hues, peeling paint, iron door grills and faded handpainted signs are a never-ending treat fuelling an Instagram feed for months.
If architecture isn’t your thing then there’s plenty of street cats and dogs to pose for you or stunning vintage cars parked up awaiting a fare. See the work of photographer Emmy Park for inspiration.
3. See the sights with an organised Vintage Car Tour
The drivers pay handsomely to tax their convertible Buicks and our a guide (University educated and a lecturer in a previous life) takes us around the sights of the city to fill us in on its fascinating history.
We visit the imposing Plaza de la Revolución where the leaders of the ruled after the victory. Their faces outlined on the buildings and where, just days before our visit, the popular Labour Day was celebrated.
We go to a park where a bronze statue of John Lennon sits on a bench – Beatlemania was famously resisted by Castro who believed the Fab Four were the epitome vulgar consumerism. However, he changed his tune and later thought of Lennon as a revolutionary dedicated to emancipating the working class.
4. Go back in time to fifties Havana for a touch of well-preserved Americana
Along the famous Malecon esplanade fishermen cast their bait and lovers look out to the sea, and our hotel, Hotel Iberostar Habana Riviera in the Vedado district of Havana, is part of 1950’s Cuban history. It’s where American mobster Meyer Lansky (who had been inspired to build it after visiting his friend, Moe Dalitz’s nine-storey Riviera Casino on the Las Vegas Strip) set up shop attracting hedonistic weekend travellers.
It does feel like stepping back in time; as if the clocks stopped in the early 60s after the revolution. Gone are the Miami mobsters with their money-making and corruption. Gone are the politicians who robbed the country of the people’s money. Gone are the imports of Americana. Welcome to the harsh sanctions and the new socialist state; to the buildings that can no longer be renovated or the cars that can no longer be fixed (at least not with ‘proper’ car parts). But Cubans are a resourceful and passionate people and fiercely proud of their unique place in the world.
5. Take a digital detox
Ruin tourism this is not; Cuba is on the up and they want the rest of the world to know. “Tell all of your friends to come and visit us…” is the phrase we hear time and time again. We can’t quite tell all of our friends as quickly as we like because the internet won’t allow it. Access is only available in certain places and then, only with a card where you have to input about 30 numbers each time you log on. But we’re more than happy with the enforced downtime and being ‘uncontactable’ is really quite refreshing.
6. Head to the keys
We’ve just passed a flock of flamingoes on Cayo Santa Maria after a six-hour drive that has included views of faded pastel houses and bright, shimmering 50’s Cadillacs whilst on our way from Havana to our hotel by the coast.
The drive wasn’t all vintage cars though; our government transportation, provided by the state-run Gaviota, is a Chinese model and there are plenty of Soviet Lada’s and a sprinkling of (disappointingly) new Toyotas on the route.
Usually on a long trip like this it would mean head in phone but the enforced digital downtime has been good for the soul. And if we were staring at our phones we’d have missed those beautiful flamingoes. And the enterprising folks selling corn along the highways. And that stunning architecture. And the smattering of revolutionary slogans and posters. And the man ploughing his field with the help of an Oxen.
Cayo Santa Maria is accessible by a 48km manmade link from the mainland to the keys. It’s an alternative destination from Trinidad or Varadero with big all-inclusive resorts and white sandy beaches. We stay at the four-star all-inclusive Dhawa Hotel where the main other holidaymaker seems to be (as we found) very friendly Canadians.
7. Visit Historic Villa Clara for a history in Revolution
The province of Villa Clara is historic for Cubans. Its centre, Santa Clara, is where the ‘Tren Blindado’ (the ‘Armored Train’) has been turned in to a memorial park and makes for an obvious stop-off on the revolutionary trail telling the story of what would become the most important battle.
Close by, the Ernesto Che Guevara Sculptural Complex is an imposing mausoleum with a huge 22-foot bronze statue of the man himself holding his gun with the words ‘Hast La Victoria Siempre’ (Ever Onward to Victory) beneath his feet. Behind is a museum devoted to Che’s life with pictures, clothing and some of his weapons.
8. Stay somewhere new
The town of Sagua La Grande is officially open to tourists with two new hotels; the colonial style Gran Hotel Sagua opened in the Summer of 2018 and the boutique Hotel Palacio Arenas which has been recently renovated.
The square has been given a bright new lick of paint and enterprising locals are hoping to benefit from some considerably richer foreigners arriving into the town. The rest of the town’s buildings remain muted in colour – the paint hasn’t spread to the outer streets yet and maybe it will take a while for the tourists too, but you’ll need to be quick before the word gets out.
9. Take a stop-over on the way to the beach
Overseas guests are scarce around these parts so don’t be surprised if you are asked for a selfie by young kids who brandish their smart phones with delight in the town of Remedios.
It’s like stepping into a pretty Western film studio of colourful colonial buildings. Situated between Santa Clara and Caibarien, Remedios is a great cultural stop before carrying on to the white beaches of Cayo Santa Maria.
10. Seek out the Street Art
2018 was a controversial year for artists and creatives in Cuba with the arrival of Decree 349 which states that all independent cultural activity must be pre-approved by the government.
There are still works by street artists to be seen all over the city and Cuban’s are resourceful when it comes to sign-painting for their businesses – often producing beautiful hand brushed works. Look out for the work of street artist Yulier Rodriguez (tag name Yulier P).
11. Visit the 13th Havana Biennial
2019 sees the Havana Biennial return after its cancellation in 2018 due to hurricane damage. The 13th Biennial takes place from 12 April to 19 May with artists from all over the world descending on the island for an entire month of free art expositions, workshops, and conferences. This year’s theme is ‘The Construction of the Possible’ and sees hundreds of artists from over 40 countries invited.
For an independent take the organisers of ARTempoCuba (whose mission is to promote Cuban fine arts and culture in order to provide opportunities for Cuban curators and creators in Cuba and around the world) has created a variety of programming including studio visits, group presentations, lectures, a private gala celebration, and other interactive experiences during the biennial.
ARTempoCuba is also the publishers of ‘Cutting Edge Art in Havana’, the definitive guide book on Cuban contemporary art.
12. Head to a Rooftop party
Music is flourishing in Cuba’s capital, with the seeds of innovation sown by a growing number of young artists, producers, dancers and collectives committed to shaking up the system.
Taking advantage of this sea-change is music agency Guampara Music, Cuba’s first genre-bending independent urban label, that’s ready to take on the world.
Founded by Isnay Rodriguez, the Havana based music impresario (who performs around the world and records under the name DJ Jigüe) and much-respected producer and DJ, has charted new directions for Cuban music. Guampara has all the charm and individuality of a rudimentary DIY culture; with the collective throwing regular rooftop house parties.
Fused was invited by the Cuba Tourist Board on behalf of MINTUR as part of the FITCUBA Fair. Please visit www.travel2cuba.co.uk and www.cubatravel.cu for more information.
The Tour in Havana was courtesy of Viajes Cubanacan (MINTUR) ground handler of the UK Tour Operator The Holiday Place.
